I have dealt with many different ways to balance tires since I started mounting my own tires several years ago. I have had very good results using a simple bubble balancer and lead weights clamped to the rims.

I have considered purchasing a spin balance machine on several occasions but the cost of the machine has deterred me considering the small number of wheels I balance in a year. I can pay to have several tires balanced for the cost of a machine. Also, for most tires my bubble balancer provides acceptable results.

I have studied various methods of automatic wheel balancing for years as well. As the tire wears, the balance changes. And short of taking the tire off the Jeep and rebalancing it, there is nothing else that can be done using the clam on wheel weight method.

I have looked at the rings full of mercury that bolt on the back of the wheel. I have studied the sand and ceramic dust methods used on semi trailer tires. However the simplest method for me to implement would be to add a liquid to the tire.

Looking at the mathematical proof of the physics behind the sand method, I theorized that any fluid would do the same. The material tends to move to the light spot as centripetal force takes over automatically balancing the tire as it rotates.

This week I came across the idea test subject. In the past I was fighting other vibrations at the same time such as bad bearings or U joints. This time however, my truck was running smooth and I had a tire with a big chuck of rubber missing.

Running the tire with no weights produced a huge bounce that could be felt at speeds over 40mph. The Jeep was un drivable at over 60MPH.

The first test was to balance it with conventional lead weights in the bubble balancer. It took slightly over 280 grams of lead on the rim to balance the tire. It was difficult to get that much lead on the wheel and on the test run one of the weights came off. However it did produce a smooth ride.

The next test was to replace the lead with a liquid. I did not want to use water as in freezing conditions it would make a block of ice in the low part and create a huge imbalance. I chose instead a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water.

I popped the bead on the tire and poured in 290 grams of the balancing liquid. I remounted the tier and took it for a test run.

The initial test run showed a nice smooth ride. I was not able to exceed 60MPH on the test run due to road and traffic conditions but the ride was noticeable smoother than with the lead weights.

I plan to further test the liquid wheel balancing method to see if it will automatically balance all wheels. The math shows that it will work with tires that have dynamic balance problems as well. I can’t deal with these on my bubble balancer so if the liquid method of automatic wheel balancing works, I will not ever have to buy a balancing machine.

Tire Balance Wheel Weights Stick On Strips 61113 Alloy US $49.50 Auction Ends: Thursday Sep-09-2010 9:08:16 PDT   | Watch this Item

Car Tire Balance 60 Grams Wheel Quick Tab Weights Lots US $5.96 (0 Bid) Auction Ends: Thursday Sep-09-2010 10:22:02 PDT   | Watch this Item

1948 VINTAGE GOODYEAR TIRES BALANCE MACHINE PRINT AD US $4.99 Auction Ends: Thursday Sep-09-2010 14:26:46 PDT   | Watch this Item

Car Tire Balance 60 Grams Wheel Quick Tab Weights Lots US $5.96 Auction Ends: Sunday Sep-12-2010 17:39:49 PDT   | Watch this Item

Car Tire Balance 60 Grams Wheel Quick Tab Weights Lots US $5.96 Auction Ends: Sunday Sep-12-2010 17:55:24 PDT   | Watch this Item

Car Tire Balance 60 Grams Wheel Quick Tab Weights Lots US $7.75 Auction Ends: Sunday Sep-12-2010 21:09:58 PDT   | Watch this Item

Car Tire Balance 60 Grams Wheel Quick Tab Weights Lots US $5.96 Auction Ends: Monday Sep-13-2010 7:02:49 PDT   | Watch this Item

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ESCO Liquid Tire Balance One Case of 12 32oz Bottles US $149.99 Auction Ends: Tuesday Sep-14-2010 14:28:21 PDT   | Watch this Item

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See how to remove the doors from a Jeep Cherokee here.

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Replacing the AC compressor on a GM 350 engine is not nearly as hard as it looks. The compressor is held to the engine by an aluminum cradle. The cradle does not have to be removed to replace the compressor. There are simply three bolts that hold the compressor to the cradle that have to be removed.

Note that this procedure only covers the physical swap of the compressor, not he associated tasks related to servicing the AC system after a compressor failure.

Begin by removing the freon from the system. If you want to have it reclaimed, take it to a shop that does this.

Remove the two electrical connections to the compressor.

Next remove the freon lines form the back of the compressor. The manifold is held in place by a single bolt. Mine was 15 MM.

Use a pry bar to move the belt tensioner and slide the belt off. I found the easiest pulley to get the belt off of was the smooth idler below the compressor.

With the freon lines out of the way, the bolts are much easier to access. There are nuts on the back and the bolt heads are held in place by a boss on the front. Mine were 9/16”.

With the nuts removed the bolts can be pushed out the front. However, it appears that they will not clear the clutch. However, there is a flat cut on each bolt. Rotate the flat to be next to the clutch and the bolts will slide out. A pry bar can be used to get just a little extra clearance if the bolt does not slide past easily.

On mine, one bolt also interfered with the fan shroud. I found that by removing the bolts that hold the shroud to the front header, the shroud could be moved enough to get the bolt out.

With the bolts all out, the compressor simply lifts out of the cradle.

With the compressor out, I had to swap a pressure switch that did not come with my replacement compressor. This switch is held in place with a snap ring.

Before attempting to slide the new compressor back into the cradle, take time to tap the bolt hole inserts all the way to the back of the cradle. This will make inserting the new compressor much easier. They will press back into the proper place when the nuts are tightened.

Slide the bolts back in by again aligning the flat spot on each bolt with the clutch and slide it in. Place the nuts on each bolt and tighten.

Reconnect the electrical connections to the compressor.

Secure the fan shroud.

Make sure the belt is routed correctly and use a pry bar to move the tensioner and slip the belt back in place.

Add the proper amount of oil and reattach the freon lines to the compressor.

You can now have the system serviced and the freon replaced.

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