{"id":5007,"date":"2019-06-18T20:46:49","date_gmt":"2019-06-19T00:46:49","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/mikestrawbridge.com\/blog\/?p=5007"},"modified":"2019-06-18T20:47:00","modified_gmt":"2019-06-19T00:47:00","slug":"ford-f250-super-duty-parking-brake","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/mikestrawbridge.com\/blog\/2019\/06\/ford-f250-super-duty-parking-brake\/","title":{"rendered":"Ford F250 Super Duty Parking Brake"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Rebuilding parking brake assembly on 2009 Ford F250<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

When I bought my F250 the parking brake did not hold.\u00a0 Since this is an automatic, it is no normally a problem.\u00a0 However, when trying to hook up a trailer the little bit of roll from placing the truck in park can be enough to let the hitch move out of alignment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I assumed the brake just needed adjustment.  When I could not find the adjuster, I decided\nto pull the drum off and see what was going on.  What I found shocked me.  There were no parking brake shoes, springs or\nanything!  It looks like the backing\nplate rusted out and someone just removed all the parts rather than make the\nrepair.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

I ordered new backing plates, shoes and a hardware kit. I also\npicked up new hub seals and a hub nut socket.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dorman 924-212 Brake Backing Plate for Select Ford Models (Pack of 2) \u00a0https:\/\/amzn.to\/2WJfv5u<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dorman HW7311 Parking Brake Hardware Kit <\/a> https:\/\/amzn.to\/2KgQwAb<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wagner Z854 Parking Brake Shoe <\/a>\u00a0https:\/\/amzn.to\/2WCWJIf<\/p>\n\n\n\n

2 of Timken 370247A Oil Bath Seal <\/a>\u00a0https:\/\/amzn.to\/2KhnOip<\/p>\n\n\n\n

CTA Tools 4175 Ford Wheel Bearing Locknut Socket <\/a>\u00a0https:\/\/amzn.to\/2WJ4gKm<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I jacked up the truck and removed the wheel. I then removed\nthe caliper bracket bolts and set the whole assembly on some boxes.  The hose is very short, so the support had to\nbe just the right height to store the caliper. \nI then removed the rotor drum combination.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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I then removed the four bolts that hold the backing plate to\nthe axle.  I then found it would not come\noff over the hub.  I pulled the axle. I\nset a pan under the hub to catch the bit of axle fluid the drained out.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I then used a Ford axle socket to remove the hub nut.  On the driver\u2019s side, this is reverse thread.  It clicks as it comes off.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The hub is a bit had to pull off the axle as the seal must\nbe separated to pull it off. You will need a new seal whenever this is\nremoved.  With the hub off, I removed the\nbacker plate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I had a time getting the emergency brake cable to release from its clip.\u00a0 I ended up using a small hose clamp to compress the fingers and working the clip out of the bracket.\u00a0 Some PB Blaster seemed to help.\u00a0 Even with the cable loose from the holder it was difficult to release it form the actuator.\u00a0 I had to rotate the cable up and twist it of the tab. (On the second side I could not get enough slack in the cable so I had to disconnect the cable under the cab at the splice.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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I was then able to extract the actuator form the rusted\nbacker plate. It was frozen in position, so I used PB blaster and kept working\nit until it freed up.  I then drove the\nstuds out of the bracket and plate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sorting out the new parts with no guide to go by was a\nchallenge. Once I sorted out which parts went on which side of the truck it was\neasier.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The first step needs to be mounting the backer plate on the bracket and pressing in the studs.\u00a0 The shoes block the access if you mount them first.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I had to assemble two shoes with the top spring in position\nand flex them over the actuator.  Then I\nuse some big vise grip clamps to hold the shoes in place while I set the\nadjuster in place at the bottom.  Then I\ninstalled the pins and clips that anchor the shoes to the backer plate.  I used vise grips to compress the clips and\nneedle nose pliers to twist the pins to the locked position.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

With backer plate assembled, I reattached the brake cable.  I then slipped it over the axle stub and\nbolted it to the axle housing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I then installed a new seal and set the hub in place. I\ntightened the hub nut to 60 ft lbs and then backed off five clicks per the\ninstructions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I then reinstalled the axle and tightened the bolts.  I reused the O ring as it looked to be in\ngood shape.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I test fit the drum \/ rotor on the shoes and adjusted the\nshoes until there was just a bit of drag when installing the drum.  It is easier to get to the adjuster with the\ndrum off.  Once I had them adjusted, I\nput the caliper back in place and secured it with the bolts.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

I then reinstalled the wheel and torqued the lug nuts to 125 ft lbs.\u00a0 I then rechecked the torque on the axle to hub bolts. 70 ft lbs.\u00a0 I then reinstalled the hub cap and did the job over on the other side.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Rebuilding parking brake assembly on 2009 Ford F250 When I bought my F250 the parking brake did not hold.\u00a0 Since this is an automatic, it is no normally a problem.\u00a0 However, when trying to hook up a trailer the little bit of roll from placing the truck in park can be enough to let the … <\/p>\n

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