Mazda 3 Front Brake replacement

After 114000 miles my Mazda 3 finally needs new brake pads. I decided to replace the rotors as well so I got this kit from Amazon: My car has the 2.0 motor and is a 2010 model year so I had to be careful to get the right parts ordered. This kit was a perfect fit.

I began by lifting the car and removing the wheels. I snapped out the anti-rattle clip with a screwdriver.

Next I removed the plugs that cover the ends of the caliper slides with a screwdriver.

Now I could access the 7mm hex fitting to remove the sliders.

I used a large screwdriver to pry the caliper off the rotor. There was a slight lip that worn on the rotor that prevented it from sliding off easily. supported the caliper with a ratchet strap to the spring to avoid stress on the brake hose. Then I removed the caliper bracket by removing the two bolts with 17mm heads.

I had a little trouble getting the rotor free of the hub. I used a small hammer to tap the center of the rotor between the lugs until it heard it pop loose. Then I used a dead blow hammer to get the rotor started off. It then came off by hand. Cleaned the hub face and mounting surface. I bit a thin layer of anti-seize on the hub to help it come off next time.

I cleaned the new rotor of its shipping coating and placed it over the lugs. I then bolted the caliper mount back in place. Mine did not need any cleaning on the brake sliding surfaces.

I used my caliper piston tool to press the piston back into the caliper.

I then set the outer pad in place. I had to compress the springs just a bit to get the inner pads to snap into the piston.

I then set the caliper into place. I cleaned the slider pins and put a touch of anti-seize on them. I then used the 7mm hex to tighten them into place. I then put the plastic covers back on.

Finally, I snapped the anti-rattle clip back into place. I started with one end then twisted that side into place, Then I started the other end into the hole and press the tang over the caliper to lock it down. I then tapped the ends into the holes just a little more.

After remounting the wheels and torquing the lugs, I then carefully pumped up the brake pedal being careful not to press the pedal all the way to the end of its travel. Once I had a firm pedal I backed the car out of the shop and bedded int eh brakes. It took only about three cycles from 30 to 5 mph to get a good bite on the pads.