Track Bar failure on the road

Track Bar failure on the road

On the way home from the Tracy city Trail ride we had a scary incident. Jennifer was driving and I was in the back seat with the boys. Just as we entered the Ridge Cut on I-24, she screamed that the steering had quit. Luckily there was not much traffic around and she was able to coax the Jeep over to the shoulder.

I hopped out and looked under the Jeep. It did not take me long to spot the track bar drooping down. The bolt that secures it to the axle was missing. The missing bolt allowed the axle to move side to side rather than turning the wheels when the steering wheel was turned.

I rummaged around in her tool kit and finally chose a Phillips screwdriver to fill the hole. We secured the screwdriver with a bungee cord and I drove slowly to the next exit.

We drove to the nearest Ace hardware but it was closed. We went into Walgreen’s next door to look for a bolt. They did not have any bolts or anything that fit the hole better than the screwdriver we were already using. They did however have electrical tape.

I taped the screwdriver securely in place so that it would not work out as I drove. We tried to find an open parts store but since it was just after 9pm they were all closed.

I decided to slowly drive the Jeep back to my shop. It drove OK but had a lot of loose motion in the center of the steering. I had to anticipate turns and be ready.

Screw driver holding track bar in place

The next morning I searched the shop and finally came up with a spare bolt and the special nut that goes on the back. I removed the screwdriver and cut of all the tape. The screwdriver was only slightly bent and I returned it to her tool kit.

I installed the new bolt and nut and torqued it to 74ft lbs per the Haynes Shop manual. While I was under there I noticed that the connection of the tie rod to the pitman arm was slightly loose as well. I removed the cotter key and turned the bolt a half turn or so to snug it up. I then put back in the key.

The steering still had a little slop so I removed the electric fan and cleaned off the adjuster bolt on top of the steering box. I tightened the box about a half turn or so on the adjuster and locked back the lock nut. Her Jeep drives much better now.

Tracy City trail ride

Tracy City trail ride

This weekend we attended the Damn Locals 4×4 club annual toy ride. We did not know what to expect but we loaded into Jennifer’s Jeep and took along a toy to donate. We had considered meeting the group leaving from Coalmont since we had heard about the weekend from their Facebook posts. However we passed the meeting point of the Damn Locals along the way and saw several interesting rigs about our size so we decide to just join in there.

No one jumped up to greet us but the people were welcoming enough when we approached them. We talked with a group of XJ’s and had made tentative arrangements to ride with them. However, a large group headed out and the XJ’s seemed to be waiting on someone who was still along way off. We dropped in at the end of a long line of various sized rigs including a stock TJ on street tires and several on Rockwells and huge boggers.

We dropped off the pavement near Pryor Ridge Church. We really had no idea where we were going or what lay in store for us. At various stopping points folks waved us around and we ended up in the middle of the pack. Directly behind us was another red XJ except his had leaf springs all around and full size Ford axles. There was another XJ behind him with tall control arm drop mounts. They were very friendly to us at the various stops.

We were directly behind a group of Toyotas that had come up form North Georgia. We could not see the front of the line. And since we did not have a CB radio, we had no communication with the group while moving.

We crossed a creek several times. There were several challenging rock ledges to cross and some mud holes so deep that we had to bypass.

Jennifer got hung once when she slipped sideways and hung her rear diff on a rock. Just a couple of stacked rocks and some side to side shaking got her moving again without any assistance from the others. They seemed to be willing to help but were nice enough to see if we could get ourselves out before offering to help.

We eventually stopped for lunch at the mouth of Peter Cave. We had elected to take the more challenging entrance down the creek bed. The Toyota in front of us lost a taillight that I returned to him when we stopped at the cave entrance.

We explored the cave which is large enough to drive a truck into. We had lunch and began to join some of the conversations going on around us. We learned some of the history of the area and plans for the future. I still had no feel for where I was and we had made too many turns to keep track of.

The group of Toyotas left to go their own way as did the two other XJ’s. We finally met our trail leader and tucked in near the front of the line. We also figured out who was running tail gunner so we knew when our group was all together at the stops.

We watched while some of the taller rigs played in a creek bed. We then ended up at a Church in the middle of no where. There is a small concrete block building marked Bryant’s Cove Baptist Church. I am not sure how the church folk get there because the way we went was very challenging. There seemed to be about a hundred rigs parked in the church yard.

After Janice and Jennifer made use of the church outhouse, we followed our leader up out of the cove. Our next stop was a huge mud hole. Actually it was several mud holes. The area appeared to be the intersection of at least three trails and there were rigs scattered in the trees as far as I could see. Every trail was blocked by something going on. It looked like a three ring circus.

A Full sized Ford had tried the deepest mud hole and may have popped bead on his huge tire. From the commentary and laughter, I think he had just re seated the bead using ether with the usual fire and excitement. I noticed his truck was held up by a bright pink Hi Lift.

The exit we wanted was blocked as far as I could see and our trial boss walked forward to clear a path. There was more commotion gong on down another trial with several full size pickups doing lots of tire spinning in the mud. The other group of XJ’s could be seen through the trees. They seemed to just be stuck in the traffic jam.

Eventually we had a path but not an easy one. Jennifer had twisted her ankle so she asked me to drive from that point. I had to negotiate a very deep mud hole with a step exit and then work between some trees with a scary off camber toward the creek below. I made it fine with both mirrors intact. Her Dick Cepeks gripped well, even though we had only aired down to 20 psi or so and never disconnected the sway bar.

A huge Toyota Land Cruiser was in front of us so we knew that if he fit we could too. The two of us ended up a bit ahead of the rest of the group as our trial leader had stayed behind to make sure people knew the way through the confusing set of bypasses. We stopped at the first wide spot which was a good ways up the trial. Once we had all lined back up again, dusk was settling in fast.

We arrived at a choice of exits from the cove. The trail we chose to follow the Land Cruiser on is called Parson’s. It is a step rocky climb. I slightly under estimated the difficulty from the bottom however. Next time I will air down and disconnect the sway bar.

The Land Cruiser was doing well with his spotter stacking a lot of rocks to get him through. I did pretty well as long as I kept moving. The trail was a lot like rail bed in Harlan except that it goes on forever. Like most it gets more challenging as it goes up.

For most of the trail I drove loaded with people as well. Janice, Caleb and Hunter were in the back seat and Jennifer in the front. With he ankle hurting I hated to ask to walk and spot much. Eventually I made a mistake and got hung on both diffs. I could not move forward or backwards. Everyone bailed out and as I was about to get out and see if I could jack it up and get a rock under a tire, one of the Other trail leaders showed up and began helping me work through. The Truck behind me had caught up by this point and gave me a slight tug backwards to get me off the rock. I was then able to take a different line and make it over the obstacle.

My guide stayed with me and helped me over the next difficult section. I was getting nervous because the trail was getting harder and the daylight was gong away. The Land Cruiser kept getting hung in front of me as well. I seemed to do fine until I would stop. Each time I stopped, I had trouble getting moving again. Also, the brakes had gotten spongy and at times non existent. That made backing up to take a different line very scary.

It was really getting dark when the Land Cruiser got hung on the last obstacle of the climb. My guide went forward to help them and I went up to watch. After a lot of rock stacking and maneuvering, they finally got out. Not before dislodging all the rock bridges they had built however.

I followed my spotter’s advice as best I could but I could not really get lined up like he wanted me to due to the scary lack of brakes in reverse. I was able to make it up the last rock in just two or three attempts however. I pulled to the side and popped the hood. The master cylinder chamber for the rear brakes was empty and had been sucking air. Jennifer asked around and got some brake fluid. Adding it brought the brakes up to full pedal immediately. For that I was very thankful.

I was congratulated on my climb by several in the dark. There were several groups mixed together at this point so I am not sure who was who. There were some big tube buggies that took the even more difficult upper climb in the dark. I ended up in the lead of my sub group and followed the winding trail through the trees to a wide spot where those who had not take Parson’s were waiting for us.

We regrouped and headed out of the woods. Back at the High School where we had met we said our goodbyes and headed home.

I hope to go back soon, but I will still have to have a guide. There are just too many side trails and loops for me to keep track of after just one ride along.

Rear Main Seal Leak Jeep Cherokee

Rear Main Seal Leak Jeep Cherokee

Last night I did another rear mail seal on a Jeep Cherokee. I still remember the first one that I did with lots of help from my Dad. In fact he did most of the work. We could not figure out how to get the pan out from under the engine. Based on some instructions we fond on the internet at the time, he ended up unbolting the oil pump and letting it fall into the pan to get the pan out from under the Jeep.

Since that time I have done several more. Each time I find I can unbolt slightly less to get the pan out.

Once the oil was drained, I first unbolted the starter and pushed it aside. I left the electrical connections in place and just set it to the side. I should have disconnected the battery cable at the battery but I did not.

Next I unbolted all the clips holding the transmission lines in place. There are several of these that all have 8mm headed screws. This allowed the lines to be moved around as needed to maneuver the pan. Also disconnect the oxygen sensor at the connector by the pan. This will prevent possible damage to the wire when putting the pan back in.

I then removed all the bolts from the pan. There are several different sizes and types of fasteners in the pan. And some have extra clips on them. So you need to devise a method to keep track of them so they go back in the right holes. I laid them out on my work table in a pattern I could follow going back in. You will need a deep well 7/16 socket and a 1/2 inch socket to get them all out.

I had trouble with all of the double decker bolts that held clips. They all came out of the pan when I tried to undo the nut that is supposed to hold the clip. I simply left them as assemblies until time to put them back in. Then I took them apart so I could properly install the fasteners.

With all the bolts out, I tapped the pan with my fist and it separated easily. That is the nice thing about working with the later model one piece gasket. If you are doing an earlier one with the four piece gasket; be prepared to drive in a knife blade to make the pan separate. You will then have to straighten the pan once you have it off.

Getting the pan out from between the axle and the oil pump is the tricky part. Yes, it will fit if it is turned just the right way. Holding the pan by the sump and facing forward, slide the front of the pan up the track bar to the left. Pull the rear of the pan to the right so that the flange is against the bell housing. Once it is properly aligned, it will slide right out. Tapping it with a soft hammer will help align it. It is OK to flex the pan a little to get it out if necessary. Removing the shocks will allow the axle to drop to get a bit more clearance. Also, you can disconnect the track bar. However, it is not necessary to do either of those steps as the pan will come out if it is properly twisted.

The rear main seal is in the rear main cap. Use a 13/16 socket to remove the two bolts and drop the cap. The cap fits snugly so you may have to use a pry bar to work it out of the recess in the block.

The lower part of the seal can be easily removed from the cap. The upper part of the seal is a little trickier to get out. The seal is square in cross section and can be seen from below. The trick is to use a soft punch to get the seal to move around the crank shaft to rotate it out. The seal usually sticks but will move freely once it moves the first little bit.

This Jeep was particularly stubborn. I was not able to get the seal to move using my brass punch or even a screwdriver. I eventually made a drift using a piece of ¼ inch key stock. I was able to set the key stock against the seal and use a hammer to strike it firmly to get the seal moving. Once the seal moved a half inch or so, I was able to use a pair of needle nose pliers and rotate it slowly around the crank to slip it out easily.

Putting the new seal in can be tricky as well. First of all make sure it is turned the right way round. The thicker side of the seal faces the front of the engine.

Coat the seal with grease or oil. Slip the seal into the hole and begin to slowly work the seal into the slot. Push the end of the seal with one hand while holding the seal tight against the crank with the other hand. Be careful not to nick the seal. If you encounter resistance, stop and back it out some before proceeding. Once the seal is all the way in, align the ends so that they protrude the same on both sides.

Install the lower seal half in the cap. Put some RTV on the sides of the cap and push it up into the block. Install the bolts and tighten them evenly. Torque them to 80 foot pounds.

Clean the pan and the gasket surfaces thoroughly. Getting the pan back in is also tricky; especially the part about getting the gasket in at the same time. Note that you can use the newer style one piece gasket on the older pan.

To get the pan back in, twist the pan similar to how it was removed. Push the front of the pan to the left over the track bar. Don’t worry if the transmission lines end up on the wrong side of the pan. You can move them later. Pop the pan through the opening and align it with the engine. Now you can set the gasket in place and work it around the oil pickup. Sometimes it is helpful to use wire ties through a few of the holes to keep the gasket aligned as you lift it into place.

Put the bolts back into their respective holes leaving them all loose until they are all in. Note that the two at the back, have a strap that helps tighten the rear of the pan against the seal.

Tighten them all snugly and evenly. On this Jeep, I used a Felpro gasket that had metal inserts in the bolt holes to prevent crushing the gasket. The front four bolts are threaded into an aluminum part; so be careful not to over torque these. The rest are into steel and are pretty forgiving unless cross threaded.

There is one bolt that is difficult to reinstall. It is directly above the exhaust manifold and requires a swivel on the socket to get it out. Use care to make sure this bolt and the others are threaded in straight before tightening them all evenly.

Next, install clips on the studs and reattach the transmission cooling lines. Reconnect the oxygen sensor and place the wire is in the clips. Reattach the starter. Make sure the pan drain bolt is tight and then refill with oil. You may want to put in a fresh filter at the same time.

Ignition repair on 1995 GMC Suburban

Ignition repair on 1995 GMC Suburban

My 1995 GMC Suburban has had a bit of a stumble for a while now. It runs fine most of the time but will occasionally hiccup and stumble. However lately it has gotten worse and towing the trailer has been a bit of a struggle.

I began by replacing the distributor cap and rotor. The cap is held in place by two Phillips head screws. It seemed a #1 Phillips fit better than the more common #2. I swapped the wires over to the new cap one at a time to make sure I did not mix any up.

Before installing the new cap I installed a new rotor. The center of the old rotor was obviously burned. I just pulled up on the old rotor to remove it from the distributor shaft. The new one pressed on by aligning the tab in the slot and pressing it down on the shaft.

I then set the new cap in place and tightened the two screws. I made sure all the plug wires were properly routed and started the engine to test. Most of the stumble was gone but it was still down on power when towing.

When swapping the wires, I noticed the coil wire looked especially bad. When the truck started running really bad on the way home from Harlan, I stopped at Advance Auto and picked up a new set of wires. I swapped the coil wire in the parking lot and headed back out. The engine immediately ran better. I had had trouble starting from traffic lights but that problem went away pulling out of the Advance Auto parking lot.

I waited until I got home to swap the rest of the wires. I was happy that the set included all the proper length wires. Sometimes these lower cots sets don’t have the right length wires but all these fit nicely with a couple being an inch or two longer which made routing easy in the factory clips.

I laid out the wires on the shop floor in order of length. I then pulled off one wire at a time and picked the corresponding length wire to replace it. I did open up the loom clips and release all four wires form one side of the engine at a time. However, I only had one wire off the distributor cap at a time to avoid switching any wires.

The four original wires on the passenger side had extra protective sleeves on them. I transferred these to the new wires. These sleeve help protect the wires where they go behind the transmission dip stick. I put all the wires back in the separator clips and made sure they were routed away from heat as much as possible.

Several of the wires were burned up where they connected to the spark plugs. I noticed that the engine idled smoother and revved up smoother after I swapped the wires. I will have to wait for a test drive under load to know how much the new wires have helped.

Video from the XJ list Fall Crawl

Tombstone is a trail we have all run in the past. Now it has washed out into a much more challenging obstacle. I was content to just watch.

Josh decided not to run Lion’s Den this year after having trouble on the entrance.