Category: VW

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Passat Coil pack

Jennifer’s Passat suddenly started running rough and stalled.  She called for help and we trailered it to the shop.

We pulled the codes and got Random Misfire and and Cylinder 3 and 5 Misfire.   We tried testing the spark using an inductive spark tester, but none of the wires would reliably light the light.

We did all the resistance checks that the Bentley manual suggested and every thing checked out.  However, it was obvious that the spark was still weak to non existent.

Despite the lack of firm evidence, we elected to replace the coil pack.  The V6 Passat coil pack is only available as a unit that included all three coil packs and the transistor to fire them.

The coil pack is easy to change. There are four bolts holding the coil pack to the front of the engine.  There is one wire connection where the bundle comes in.  Then there are the six plug wires.

Replacing the coil pack quickly cured the misfire condition.

 

 

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VW Passat rear window regulator repair

VW Passat rear window regulator repair

We picked up a rear door at Pull A Part to repair Jennifer’s window regulator.  The window was braced up so I expected to find the regulator broken. I already had the repair kit she had ordered for her door so the plan was to use it to repair the door off line and then to swap doors.

To remove the regulator, I began by carefully prying off the door handle cover.  I had to use a sharp putty knife to start lifting it and then work in a thin pry bar.  I actually use my brake spoon to get just the right angle to pop it off.  It was much easier to do with the door on the bench instead of in the car.

Next I removed the two screws under the cover. They seemed to be #3 Phillips.  I then removed the torx screw at the bottom of the door panel.  I then used my brake spoon to pop loose the push pins that hold the panel to the door.  I then carefully lifted the panel off the door.

I had to then reach under and disconnect the wires for the door latch and tweeter. Next I disconnected the loop of wire that connects the cable to the door latch handle. I then carefully slid it up out of the window channel and off the door lock pin.

I found that the door speaker was missing and so were the plastic rivets that normally hold the door catch to the inner panel. This window regulator had been serviced before!

I pulled the wedge that was holding up the window and confirmed that the window glass moved independent of the regulator. Something was in fact broken inside.  The regulator was not parked in the correct place to view the pin but the cables looked to be in the right place.

Next, I removed all the wiring harness that was accessible from the front.  I then disconnected the door lock linkage. I then removed the several 10mm hex head bolts that hold the panel to the door. I did not have much trouble separating the glue as this one had been apart before.

I lifted the panel as far as I could and then disconnected the wire at the door catch. I then was able to slide it off the door release cable and lock rod.

I was surprised I was able to move the panel independent of the glass. That is when I found the connector pin laying it the bottom of the door.  I inspected the regulator and it appeared to be in good condition. The pin had just fallen out.

However, I could not get it back in place. After much trial and some internet research, I realized the center part of the pin was not the original.  It was too long so that it could not snap into place in the regulator.  I fabricated a center pin out of some ¼ inch copper pipe. I had to use vise grips to press it in place but it looks like it will work better than the original plastic part.  I reused what I think is the original split outer ring.

In order to test the window and to get it in the correct position to snap the two parts together, I had to find a way to operate the window.  I found a wiring diagram and ended up powering up the two large wires that come to the door connector.  With power to these wires, I plugged in the wire to the window controls and was able to control the widow with the buttons.

With window regulator in a position I could reach through the speaker hole, I was able to guide the window into the clamp and snap the pin into place.

I then secured the panel with screws and hooked back up the wires cable and rod. I carefully tested everything to make sure all the moving parts worked before putting in the screws that hold the door handle in place.

The next step will be to bolt this door to the car. The color seems a perfect match.

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Replacing the ABS module on a 2000 Passat

When she bought it, Jennifer’s Passat had a scary warning on the dash says “STOP brake.”

Since the brakes stopped the car fine she bought it hoping the fix would be simple. It turns out it was.

The folks at Cheap ABS.com were a big help. We followed their helpful instructions at http://cheap-abs.com/removal.html and easily removed the unit.

We found her car had a mix of T25 and T20 fasteners holding the inner fender in place. It also took a few seconds of study to see how to pull it out of the various things it slides behind after the fasteners were out. With the inner fender out of the way, the washer bottle was visible. However, even with all three screws out, the bottle would not move out of the way enough to get to the ABS unit comfortably. I had to unplug the wiring harness and remove the pump from the bottle, to get it out of the way. These just pull right off but are behind the bottle so it was hard to do the first time.

With the bottle out of the way. I set at disconnecting the two wiring harnesses. The disconnect tab was really hard to pull forward and I had to use a screwdriver to get a bit of leverage to start it moving. I was very careful not to break any of the small plastic mounting tabs. With the wire loose, we then removed the six torx screws holding the module to the pump body.

Jennifer then packed it carefully and shipped it off to Virginia. She was able to drive the car with the box gone just as she had been driving it with the defective module.

One week alter the repaired module returned and we again pulled the fender liner and washer bottle out. The repaired module slipped right in and the wires were easy to connect after I aligned the tabs correctly. It was much easier to manipulate the washer bottle and fender liner into place after having done it once already.

When starting the car, she was greeted by a friendly reminder to top up the washer fluid instead of the STOP message that had been tieing up the display for the last few months. The anti lock brakes work as expected and so does the traction control. Thanks to the folks ta Cheap ABS!

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Flex pipe repair VW Passat

The flex pipe on this 2000 VW Passat was damaged on a speed bump. Local muffler shops wanted over $100 to replace it. It made a nasty noise.

We obtained a replacement pipe from Summit Racing for $13:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/JEX-FLX2004B/

This joint was exactly the same size as the original.

I used a reciprocating saw to slice out he old joint cutting through the welds on each end. I then used a grinder to open up the gap until the new joint was a tight fit. Leaving the original welds in place added thickness to the pipe making it easier to weld without blowing holes in the thin pipe.

I used a MIG welder to weld the front of the pipe in first. Then I had to force the rear pipe into alignment with the flex coupler while I made a tack weld. Then, I finished off the weld around the pipe.

The repair was surprisingly simple once we found the right replacement joint. It was not available at any local parts store. I already had a welder but I could have bought one from Harbor Freight plus the joint for what the muffler shops wanted to charge to make the repair.