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Jeep Cherokee Torque Converter will not lock

Jeep Cherokee Torque Converter will not lock

The first time I had this happen, I thought it was odd. But now I have had the same problem on another Jeep Cherokee. The transmission computer will not send the signal to lock the torque converter. This results in higher rpms and lower gas mileage.

The first time, I had quite a time tracing through the wiring diagrams to find the poorly documented brake switch. This switch releases vacuum to the cruise control motor and drops the signal for the torque converter. It is mounted on the brake pedal assembly well about the switch for the brake lights.

Removing the switch is difficult for me. To make it somewhat easier, I removed the driver’s seat and lay in the floor. Even in this position, access to the switch is difficult. The wiring harness and the vacuum line must be disconnected before the switch can be removed. The switch has very fine threads and it took me a long time on my back to unscrew it.

Once the switch was out, I opened the case and cleaned the contacts in side. With just a quick blast of contact cleaner, the switch was reliable again.

Installation is much easier than removal. Just get the switch started in the threads and push. Slide it in to touch the brake pedal with the case. Reattach the vacuum line and wiring harness.

In both the 1988 Wagoneer and the 1989 Cherokee I worked on, this fixed the trouble with the converter. The later model Jeeps may have a different circuit to control the transmission so this trick may not work. However, for the Renix controlled Jeeps, this fix seems to do the trick.

Update:  Just had the 89 come back to the shop and the converter was not lockign agon.  However the brake switch was fine this time.  Troubleshooting led to the TPS.  With a new TPS the converter now locks up like it is supposed to and the transmission shifts better.  http://mikestrawbridge.com/blog/2018/11/replacing-a-renix-tps/

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Gas tank repair – Ford 600

Gas tank repair – Ford 600

My old tractor and I were at an impasse. It did not want to run with very little gas in it and I did not want to put in extra gas because it just leaked out.

This weekend, I finally decided to do something about it. It began by draining the tank. I removed the fuel bowl and let it drain into a can. While it was draining, I worked on removing the cowling. After most of it drained out, I removed the line from the carburetor.

There were six bolts around the part that holds the steering wheel. It looked like there should have been eight. There were two more bolts at the front that attached the cowl to the radiator support. I used my lift to raise the cowl up and out of the way.

Next, I removed the two bolts that hold the tank down near the steering wheel. There looked like just one bolt holding the front, but it refused to come loose. I had to remove the whole support bracket from the engine.

With the tank off, I flipped it over and removed the outlet from the bottom of the tank. Two small bolts with 3/8 heads held it in place. Under the flange was what was left of the old O ring. It was no surprise that it leaked.

I installed a new O ring and replaced the outlet on the bottom of the tank. Even with the tank off, I could not get the one bolt loose from the support. So, I just put it all back like I took it off. Getting the bolts behind the muffler was a challenge but I was able to get them in.

With it all back together, I put the fuel back in the tank and then added a bit more. The old Ford ran much better with a few gallons pushing the fuel down to the crab.
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Iron Gap Road Videos

When we got to the bottom of the hill on Iron Gap Road, we were faced with a creek crossing. Dropping down into the creek was challenging due to the spring that wet the rocks about half way down and by the off camber nature of the drop.