Rear Disk Brake Conversion – Jeep Cherokee

Rear Disk Brake conversion on a Jeep Cherokee

ZJ disk Brakes on an XJ

I converted the rear brakes on my Jeep Cherokee from drums to disks. I used parts from a 96 ZJ Dana 35 to make the conversion.

I removed the brake backing plates, hand brake cables, hydraulic lines, and mounting brackets from the ZJ axle. I also pulled the bracket that holds the cables to the body as well as the brake adjuster and balance bar. The conversion might have been easier if I had pulled the ZJ handbrake lever as well.

Removing the drum brakes from my XJ meant disassembling my Lock Rite locker to get the C clips loose. This is not a big job except that it never comes apart like I think it should and it takes me a while to remember which slot the C clip has to exit through.

When I pulled the cover, I noticed that it had been way too long since I changed the gear oil in the diff. I also noticed that on a previous outing where I had banged the diff cover on a stump, it had in fact made contact with the ring gear. The gear is fine but the cover had a cut in it. I hammered the cover back close to its original shape while I had it off.

With the axles out of the way, the drum brakes came off with four mounting bolts. My backing plates were stuck to the axle with dirt and rust and had to be tapped with a hammer to slide them off the end of the axle housing.

I found that the center hole in the disk brake plate was too small to go over my 8.25 housing. I used a milling bit chucked in my drill press to enlarge the hole so it would slide over. The bolt pattern matched. The mounting studs on the 8.25 are a little too short but there seems to be enough thread engagement. If I ever do this swap again, I will pull the mounting studs from the ZJ axle as well.

With the backing plates mounted, I attached the calipers to the plates. The upper bolt is partially obstructed by the leaf spring, but it went in anyway. I also found that if the bolt is slipped into the caliper before it is set in place it all goes together easily.

I used the hydraulic lines from the ZJ. The line on the left brake was close to the right shape and required only minor bending. The long line to the right brake required quite a bit of re shaping to go over the 8.25 pumpkin and line up with the caliper. It eventually fit. The rubber line from the axle to the body matched up perfectly with the XJ hard line at the body. There is also the advantage that the ZJ line is longer than the XJ line so I don’t have the line limiting the droop as before.

ZJ disks on a XJ 8.25

I used the ZJ hand brake cables because the XJ cables have a different end on them. I removed the bracket from the bottom of the ZJ and cut it in half. I used only the rear half. I bolted the rear half to the floor of my XJ just above where the old cable clips are.

Hand Brake cables using ZJ bracket

I used the balance bar from the ZJ and used the ZJ brake adjuster rod as an extension on the XJ brake rod. I had to add a couple more inches to the rod to make it all connect up.

ZJ hand brake cable bracket

Once diff was refilled with gear oil and the brakes bled I mounted the wheels. One thing I had over looked was that the rotors are enough thicker than the drums to make the lugs bolts too short. I will have to replace these as they need another thread or two to be fully engaged with the lug nuts. If I had closed end nuts I would never have noticed.

Stopping power is vastly improved over what I had because I had a leaking wheel cylinder on the drum brakes. I used the original proportioning valve.

It took several adjustments to get the hand brake tight enough to hold on my steep driveway. However, once the slack was out of the cables, it held fine. My hand brake has not worked right on the drums for a couple of years so it will be really nice to not have to find trees to brace against when I need to hop out on the trail.

Jeep Cherokee Rear Locker Installation Chrysler 8.25

Jeep Cherokee Rear Locker Installation Chrysler 8.25

In order to boost Jenny’s Jeeps off road abilities, I recently installed a Richmond Gear Lock Right locking differential. It is one of the few available for the Chrysler 8.25 that she has in her Jeep Cherokee.

I like the lock right for its simple and strong design. It simply works and works well. I found it surprisingly easy to install as well.

The installation manual that comes with it is very thorough and describes the exact procedure you need to use to install the locker in place of the spider gears. However, it was very confusing to me to read. I was confused because it covers so many different options like if c clip or not, thick gear or not that I got lost skipping from section to section. I think I read the manual about three times before I figured out I could skip three fourths of it.

First I coated my hands with Market America Clearshield.

I began by cleaning the cover and cover bolts of off road mud. I think I saw traces of Harlan, Aetna and Golden Mountain still on there. I used a wire brush to clean the bolt heads.

8.25 locker install Jeep cherokee
Cleaning bolts

With the cover bolts out, I pried off the cover and let the grease drain into a pan. Then I set the cover aside.

Jeep Cherokee Locker install 8.25
Draining the grease

Next I inspected the differential carrier and gears. There was some wear on the pinion from where the nut had backed off a while back but otherwise every thing looked good.

I then removed the bolt that secures the cross shaft. Then I removed the cross shaft and the two spider gears on it. Next I bumped in the axles and removed the C clips and the other two spider gears.

Jeep cherokee 8.25 Spider gears
Old parts out

I removed and inspected the thrust washers. I used some heavy grease to secure them on the appropriate new drive gears.

I then spent some time studying the locker parts and trying to figure out how it actually worked. By the time I had test fit all the pieces in place – making sure it was the right spline count etc.- I had completely assembled the locker. However, I had not installed the pins or springs along the way so I had to find the disassembly instructions and take it back apart to continue with the installation.

Lock Right parts
new lock right parts ready to go in

Next, I coated the parts in axle grease to glue them together. I assembled the concentric springs as described in the instructions and set them aside.

First I set in the ring gear side gears and installed the C clip. Then I set all the pins in place. Next I set the opposite side cog in place. I used a dental pick to fish the C clip into place through the slot in the gear. The instructions talk about making a tool but I did not need it for either installation or removal. The grease on the cogs held them firmly in place while I installed the clip.

8.25 lock rite locker install
New parts in

Next I installed the springs on top of the pins. Then I slid the cross shaft back in to place and tightened the securing bolt.

Lock right locker installation
All done

I was done before I knew it.

I rotated it all around to make sure I had not missed anything. Next I cleaned and replaced the cover. I used Black RTV for a seal. I then filled it with the recommended 85-140 gear oil.

I then took it out to the wide spot in the driveway and did a couple of doughnuts to prove that the rear was in fact locked. See the locker test video here.

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