Replacing Cam Tensioner Seals 2000 VW Passat 2.8
We began on the left side of the engine as that tensioner is at the front of the engine. We were actually able to do the swap on that side without using the 3366 tool.
We began by removing the water bottle to get access to the valve cover. We used various extensions to get to the 10mm nuts that hold the cover in place. It took quite a bit of prying to get the seal to break so the cover could be removed. Even though the gasket is less than a year old it broke and had to be replaced. Our local advance auto had them individually so we just got one set and replaced it.
Once the four torx bolts that hold the tensioner in place were removed, I was able to use a pry bar to carefully lift the tensioner and compress it enough to get the gasket and half-moon out. There was some interference with the front timing cover but instead of removing it, I used the pry bar to bend the interfering part away. Cleaning the gasket surfaces took some time with various small tools.
When pressing in the new half-moon, I stuffed a rag in the head under the area in case I dropped it. We were able to get it seated with the aid of small fingers and various screwdrivers. Sliding the new gasket over the mounting studs took some finesse with pick but eventually I was successful.
Once that side was done we started the car and noticed that the right side was now leaking even more than before. We were only half way done.
Access on the right side is much more restricted as it is against the firewall and under the fuel lines and mass air flow sensor. We decided to order the 3366 tool and it was needed.
We began by removing the top of the air box and the offending air hose. Next we removed the fuel lines. The dip stick had to come out as well. Like the other side, we ended up breaking the gasket so we had to go buy another half set. It would have been cheaper to have just bought a whole set to start with. With the vale cover off, the tensioner is accessible. However the power steering line keeps it from being lifted up. I broke the screw fitting but the metal line is still in the way so I had to lift both as a unit to get the old gasket out. Having the 3366 tool made it easier as the tensioner stayed compressed when lifted up. Access to press in the half-moon was much more difficult on this side. I was finally able to press it in between the end of the can and the slot and work it into place with two picks. Getting the gasket in place seemed easier after learning on the first one and also having the 3366 tool holding the tensioner helped as well.
After that, it is just a matter of putting in a new gasket and putting the valve cover back on. Then the lines removed will have to be reconnected.