Category: Car repair

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1995 GMC Suburban Transmission Filter Change

1995 GMC Suburban Transmission Filter Change

My Suburban developed a leak at the pan gasket so I decided to change the filter since it was over due.

I began by lifting the truck.  The beast barely fits in my shop and the lift groans to pick it up.

There is no drain plug in my pan so I prepared with lots of newspaper on the floor and multiple catch pans.  I began loosening the bolts trying to make one corner hang lower than the rest.  However the gasket stuck enough to make removal of the pan full of fluid a big mess.

The filter is not bolted in on this transmission it is just held in place by the seal.  I pulled the old filter out and noticed the seal stayed in the transmission.  I tried to pull it on by hand but had no success. I tried various tools and only succeeded in damaging the seal making it absolutely necessary to change it.

Eventually I came up with the idea to use a pilot bearing puller.  I borrowed one from the local parts store.  I had to make a shim for one leg of the puller to level it out, but after that the seal came out easily.

The new filter and seal easily pressed in by hand. I flattened the gasket and laid it out on the pan.  I used four of the mounting bolts in the corners to hold the gasket in place while I lifted the pan up.  I then installed and tightened all the bolts.

Next, I filled the transmission with fluid.  After driving a short distance, I had to top it up again.

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Replacing Cam Tensioner Seals 2000 VW Passat 2.8

Replacing Cam Tensioner Seals 2000 VW Passat 2.8

 

We began on the left side of the engine as that tensioner is at the front of the engine.  We were actually able to do the swap on that side without using the 3366 tool.

We began by removing the water bottle to get access to the valve cover.  We used various extensions to get to the 10mm nuts that hold the cover in place.  It took quite a bit of prying to get the seal to break so the cover could be removed. Even though the gasket is less than a year old it broke and had to be replaced.  Our local advance auto had them individually so we just got one set and replaced it.

Once the four torx bolts that hold the tensioner in place were removed, I was able to use a pry bar to carefully lift the tensioner and compress it enough to get the gasket and half-moon out.  There was some interference with the front timing cover but instead of removing it, I used the pry bar to bend the interfering part away.  Cleaning the gasket surfaces took some time with various small tools.

When pressing in the new half-moon, I stuffed a rag in the head under the area in case I dropped it.  We were able to get it seated with the aid of small fingers and various screwdrivers.  Sliding the new gasket over the mounting studs took some finesse with pick but eventually I was successful.

Once that side was done we started the car and noticed that the right side was now leaking even more than before. We were only half way done.

Access on the right side is much more restricted as it is against the firewall and under the fuel lines and mass air flow sensor.  We decided to order the 3366 tool and it was needed.

We began by removing the top of the air box and the offending air hose.  Next we removed the fuel lines. The dip stick had to come out as well.  Like the other side, we ended up breaking the gasket so we had to go buy another half set. It would have been cheaper to have just bought a whole set to start with. With the vale cover off, the tensioner is accessible.  However the power steering line keeps it from being lifted up.  I broke the screw fitting but the metal line is still in the way so I had to lift both as a unit to get the old gasket out.  Having the 3366 tool made it easier as the tensioner stayed compressed when lifted up.  Access to press in the half-moon was much more difficult on this side. I was finally able to press it in between the end of the can and the slot and work it into place with two picks.  Getting the gasket in place seemed easier after learning on the first one and also having the 3366 tool holding the tensioner helped as well.

After that, it is just a matter of putting in a new gasket and putting the valve cover back on. Then the lines removed will have to be reconnected.

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Jeep Cherokee XJ Dash Fire

Jeep Cherokee XJ Dash Fire

I was using Jennifer’s XJ to move my race car back into the shop.  Just as I had cut loose the tow strap I noticed a glow in floor board.  At first, I thought her under dash interior lights were trying to come on, but I knew they normally don’t work.

I leaned over to see what was going on and saw flaming drops of plastic falling into the floor.  I quickly drove closer to the shop door and ran inside to get some water.  I told Jennifer her Jeep was on fire and ran back out to splash water on the floor.  Since the fire was actually inside the HVAC duct, the water did not help at all.   Jennifer tried more water but that was not helping either.

I then got the fire extinguisher out of the race car and pointed the nozzle under the dash. A quick blast had it all out. However, now everything was covered in pale yellow powder.

Once the excitement was over, the cleanup and diagnosis began.  The fire was located in the HVAC duct and the blower wheel had melted.  The most likely ignition source was the resister pack.

She had been having trouble recently with blower motor fuse blowing.  I had traced the problem to the Tan colored wire and after installing a replacement control switch, I had disconnected that wire.  However, I disconnected it only at the switch.  I did not remove it from the resister pack.  At the time I did not realize that if it shorted, it could back feed from the resister and get the resister very hot.

She got a new blower motor and we used an old fan wheel we had in stock. Removing it from the old motor was quite a chore and had we known how hard it would be we would have simply bought a new wheel with motor.  To get the old blower off, we first removed the clip.  Then we used a heat gun to soften the hub and used a screwdriver to pry it apart until it would slide off the shaft.  However, this operation made the shaft too loose on the new motor.  We solved that by heating it again with the hot air gun while the spring clamp was in place.  When it cooled it was tight.

When we tried to fit the assembly into place however, we found part of the side of the duct work had melted and interfered with blower wheel.  Again, we used the heat gun to reshape the inside of the duct work so that the fan would clear.  It still rubs a little and sometime makes a squeak, but it fits and moves air. Later the entire duct will be swapped out; but that is a job for another day or two.

To seal the hole that had melted in the duct, we used metal duct tape. Working from the foot well and through the blower motor opening we made two layers of tape to seal the hole.  Once it was all in place we installed a replacement resister pack from another donor vehicle.  This time’ I disconnected the tan wore on both ends. Access to the shorted area will have to wait until we pull the dash to replace the HVAC duct.

For now, she has heat and air so the Jeep is serviceable.  However, even after much vacuuming, powder from the fire extinguisher still continues to blow out of the vents from time to time.

I also gave her a new fire extinguisher to keep in her Jeep from now on.

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VW B5 Passat Power Steering Pump Replacement.

VW B5 Passat Power Steering Pump Replacement.

Jennifer’s power steering pump has been acting up ever since she was in an accident and the steering fluid reservoir was broken.  The damage may have been caused by the pump running dry or by having the wrong fluid put back in after the bottle was replaced.

To replace the pump, we began by flushing the system.  I disconnected the return hose and placed it in a bottle.  I then poured in the new fluid while Jennifer started and stopped the motor and turned the steering wheel.  After almost a quart was poured in, the fluid coming back looked clear and green like the new fluid. Next, we disconnected the other hose and removed the bottle for a thorough cleaning.

To access the power steering pump on the 2.8 V6, the coil pack has to be removed as the pump sits right under it.  We had already marked the wires from the coil pack replacement done a few weeks ago.

I discovered that with a long ratchet and a 17mm socket, I could loosen the belt tensioner without placing the car in service position. This saved a lot of time.

With belt off, I used a strap wrench to hold the pulley while removing the three hex head bolts that hold the pulley to the pump.  Next, I removed the bolts that hold the power steering pump bracket to the engine.  Leave the pump to bracket bolts in place until the bracket is off the engine.  Also, loosen the banjo bolt before removing the bracket bolts.

With the pump and bracket off the engine, you can separate the two parts and swap in the new pump.  I filled the new pump with fluid and placed it back on the engine.

The shop manual says to always replace the crush washers at the banjo bolt.  We had a very difficult time finding any in town and the new pump did not come with them.  I ended up using one 16mm copper washer and reusing one of the aluminum washers. It is leak free for the moment.

Once it was all back together, I filled the system with the proper fluid.  It is called Pentosin and was in stock at our local NAPA store.  It comes in a green metal can.  It is available cheaper from internet sources.

To bleed the system, we first lifted the car and turned the wheels lock to lock 5 to ten times with engine off.  After no more bubbles came out, we started the engine and repeated the turning.  After 5 or ten times back and forth, there were no more bubbles and we set topped up the fluid to the mark.

The steering is now back to normal and actually feels smoother than before the accident.  Possibly the pump was going bad for a while now.

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Replacing an axle in a 2000 Passat

How to change a CV axle in a 2000 VW Passat

Begin by removing the hub cap and loosing the axle bolt.   It will be very tight. I had an assistant hold the brake while I stood on the breaker bar.

If the original axle nut is in place, it uses a 17mm hex key.  I did not have one but Autozone did.

With the axle nut out, I then lifted the car and removed the wheel. This step may not be necessary but it made the later steps easier.

I used a screwdriver in the vanes of the brake rotor to keep it from rotating. I then used a 10mm VW star bit to remove the bolts that hold the axle to the transmission.

Next, I used a support to compress the spring as much as possible.  This allowed the axle to tip down and I was able to remove it form the car without taking anything else out.

The new axle slipped in easily. I tightened down the six small bolts and then torques the center bolt to 140 ft lbs still using the screwdriver to hold the brake rotor.

I put the wheel back on and and lowered the car.  The Bentley manual calls for an extra half turn on the bolt but I was not able to get a full half turn.  I called it good and put the hub cap back in palce.

A test drive showed the clicking and vibration was gone.