The Green Hornets’s car

1965 Chrysler Imperial
Black Beauty from the Green Hornet

I watched the new Green Hornet movie last night. I thought it was really funny. I loved the way they did not even try to make the stunts realistic. They were just way over the top exciting.

I loved the updated version of Black Beauty. The 1965 Chrysler is a really cool car. I did hate learning that they destroyed 25 of them making the movie. For that reason alone, I hope if there is a second move they use a more modern car. I think the new Chrysler 300 could fill in if the old car makes a cameo.

I did find a nice example on eBay:

Black Beauty

Green Hornet’s car

Ford 600 Carburetor

Ford 600 Carburetor Repair

My old Ford tractor runs pretty well now after I installed an electronic ignition. But it still occasionally stalls. Often it stalls in awkward places. My property is pretty hilly and sometimes it stalls on a hill where backing back down is scary. I don’t always use it like I would like to because of the stalling problem.

I had originally thought its was not having enough fuel in the tank. I had a leak at the fitting under the tank so I never liked to put in more fuel than I was going to use because it would leak out before I used the tractor again. I finally fixed that leak, but I was still having trouble with it stalling.

I have carried a long heavy screwdriver with me for a while when I use the tractor. I found years ago that I could tap on the side of the carburetor in just the right spot and it would start running again. Sometimes I had to remove the fuel bowl, but often I could just tap the side. It seemed to me that the float was sticking not letting in fuel.

Today I remembered some advice I received form a mechanic years back. He told me when I have this trouble with the tractor to remove the carburetor, take it apart and then put it back together. He said I would see nothing wrong but it would work.

I realized today after the sixth or seventh time that it stalled and I had to whack the carburetor that it had been a long time since I had taken it off the tractor.

I got it to run enough to get back to the barn and rounded up the two wrenches and screwdriver needed for the job.

First I shut off the fuel supply at the tank. Next using a 9/16 wrench, I removed the fuel bowl from the carburetor leaving it attached to the fuel line. I then loosened the two ½ inch nuts that hold the carburetor to the manifold. The manifold was hot so I had to work quickly so as not to burn my fingers.

Next I held the carburetor in one hand and removed the last nut with the other. I then slipped the two control linkages of the ball pivots. Just pull back on the connector to make them release.

With the carburetor off, I removed the four screws that hold the two halves together. One is longer than the others. I carefully separated the two halves being careful not to change the mixture adjustment.

I then poured out he gas that was in the bowl. I removed the pin that holds the float assembly and then pulled out he float valve from the top of the carburetor.

Just as I had been told I saw nothing wrong. I used some cleaner to spray in the passages where the fuel comes in and cleaned a small amount of rust out of the bottom of the bowl.

I carefully put it all back together. All the gaskets had separated cleanly so I just reused them.

I put the linkage back on the carburetor and then put it back on the manifold. Starting the two nuts was tricky because the manifold was still hot. After the carburetor was secure, I reconnected the fuel bowl making sure the copper washers were in the right places.

I then open the fuel valve and started it up. It ran rough for a minute or two. I guess it had to clear out the cleaner that was still in the passages. But after it smoothed out, the old Ford 600 ran great again.

I used the tractor for another hour and it never stalled again. I am sure glad I remembered the advice to take it apart and put it back together again. It took less than twenty minutes to do and sure made the rest of the time with the tractor more productive.

[phpbay]ford 600 carburetor, 10[/phpbay]

Working on the boy’s Jeeps

Working on the boy’s Jeeps

Front end alignment and window seals.

Both my sons were in town this holiday weekend. And when they are in town it always means a little time spent working on their Jeeps. Actually it was Megan’s Jeep, but Scott was the one working on it.

Her front tires were showing some abnormal wear on the inside edges. That is an indication that they ere toed out. We used my JCW toe gage to quickly determine that they were indeed toed out. I showed Scott how to loosen the two clamps o the end of the tie road and adjust the toe setting. We set it just slightly toed in since she has a 231 transfer case. I set mine at zero since I have a 242.

Will came in later and we finally took the time to fix his driver’s side window. He has been missing the rubber strip that guides and seals the window since he bought the truck. We rummaged through our parts Jeeps until we found one that was still flexible and fit to reuse.

We first tried to simply pull the strip out. However we found it securely attached to the vent window frame. The vent window frame is held with three torx screws. Two accessible from the top with the door open and one that requires the door panel trim to be removed. We found even with the screws out, it was still pretty stuck in the channel. Scot had to pull hard to tilt the frame out of the door channel.

With the vent window frame removed from the door, we found that it is attached to the rubber strip with a rivet near the bottom. I pulled the strip off the rivet.

To reinstall it in Will’s Jeep, we first had to remove the entire old strip. It was hardened from age and cracked into tiny pieces as we pulled it out. We had to remove the door trim panel to access the bottom part of the strip. Once the channel was clear, I was able to slide the strip into place by pressing it down between the window and the vent window frame. I used dish soap to lubricate the strip so that it would slide into the channel.

Once the strip was in place there seemed no need for the rivet. It stayed in place and did not try to move with the window. He now has a nice quiet window. It will make his drives back and forth to School a bit more pleasant.

How to replace Volvo 850 rear brakes

How to replace brakes on the rear of a Volvo 850

The rear brakes on the 1997 Volvo 850 are one of the easiest I have worked with. To service only the pads, the calipers do not have to be removed. However, to replace a rotor, they do have to come off.

Begin by raising the car and removing the rear wheels. The pads are held I the caliper by two pins. Use a punch to drive out the pins. Use care with the spring clip as I was not able to get a replacement locally.

With the pins out, remove one of the pads. Leave the other in place for the moment. Use a clamp or vise grips to compress the piston back into the caliper. If you have removed the other pad, the other piston will move rather than forcing fluid back to the master cylinder.

Once the piston is compressed, insert the new pad. Then, remove the other pad and repeat the compression procedure. Inset the other new pad. Align the holes in the pad with the caliper and tap the pins back in place over the spring clip. Center up the spring clip once the pins are in place.

Repeat the procedure for the other caliper.

If the rotor is scored and need to be replaced, the caliper must be removed. There are two bolts that hold the caliper to the backing plate. Note that the there is no flexible line at the caliper. There is a loop in the hard line that allows just enough clearance to remove the caliper from the rotor. Be sure to have some wire ready when the bolts are removed to secure the caliper in place so that it does not hang from the line.

With the bolts removed, carefully pull the caliper back off the rotor and secure it with a piece of wire tied to the spring. Make sure the parking brake is disengaged. If the rotor is binding on the parking brake loosen the shoes.

Remove the wheel alignment pin using a 10mm wrench. Some penetrating oil like PB blaster may help in getting it loose. Then, tap the rotor off the hub using a soft hammer.

Install the new rotor noting the alignment of the hole for the pin. Reinstall the pin to hold the rotor in place. Slip the caliper back over the rotor and reinstall the bolts.

Replace the wheels. I found it easier to rotate the alignment pin to the top when setting the wheels back in place. Tighten the lug bolts and reinstall the hub caps.

Test the brakes before driving. Gently slow down without coming to a complete stop a few times to bed in the new pads.

You can get the parts at Advance Auto. If you buy online and pick up the parts at the store you can take advantage of the internet discount codes.

Wagner ThermoQuiet Brake Pads - Rear - PD31

Peterbuilt Hot Rod

While waiting in line to get stickers on our Jeep for the Great Race, this awesome Peterbuilt hot rod pulled up behind us. Unfortunately it started to rain and hail so, I did not get to learn much about it. It was powered by a twin turbo diesel of some kind.

The front axle was aluminium and someone mentioned he found it in a pile of scrap aluminum. The front suspension is like an over sized T hot rod with radius arms. He maintained air brakes on all four wheels however.