Broken U joint straps – repair

Broken U joint straps – repair

On our trip to Iron Gap, Jenny was almost back up the hill when her rear diff tagged a rock. The hit was at just the right angle to shear the straps off the U joint at the pinion yoke. The drive shaft was hanging down thrashing about.

We pulled the rear shaft and she made her way back to the shop in front drive. I was going to move her front shaft to the rear, but I was not able to get the broken bits of bolt out of the yoke with the tools I had on hand.

Back at the shop, with the Jeep on the lift, I used a center punch and a hammer to carefully turn the broken bits of bolt out of the yoke. With the bolts extracted, I put a new U joint in the drive shaft and installed replacement bolts and straps.

I am considering modifying the yoke to use U bolts instead of the straps. I think they might stand up to a hit slightly better than the bolts and straps. At least they would be easier to repair on the trail.

Iron Gap Road

Trip to Iron Gap Road near Winchester,Tn

Our previous scouting trip had made us really want to see more of Iron Gap road. We paid another visit to Iron Gap road today. This time we were armed with two well equipped Jeeps to make the run. And it turned out we were not quite as prepared as we should have been.

I was sorta of expecting this to be an easy run. After all this is a county road. We dropped my trailer at the Keith Springs Community Center. We tried to call the number of the sign about a parking permit but the recording said it was disconnected.

We headed off down the paved road toward the trail head. About half a mile in, I remembered my radio was still in the Suburban. Jennifer waited while I went back and got my radio.

I drove the first three miles or so in 2wd. Not until we dropped off down the ridge did I switch to low range. Mostly to have more control of the step ledges on th way down.

About 4 miles in we came to an intersection of four roads. The road to the right was blocked by a tree so that eliminated that option. We were left with two choices that went sorta left. We chose the one that continued down the ridge.

The trail soon looked more like a trail than a road. Eventually it ended int he solid rock creek bottom. We crossed the creek and picked up another road on the other side. We chose to turn left. The road followed the creek a short distance before it made a steep descent into the creek toward a crossing. The descent was made even more interesting by two springs that came out of the rocks right were we went down.

A couple of friendly ATV riders stopped to watch us make the descent. They were really surprised to see the second Jeep was driven by a girl.

They helped us get our bearings and we continued on. The trail crossed the creek several more times. Most of the creek bed was dry and it was sometimes difficult to tell what was rod and what was creek.

At one point the road was blocked by a tree so we dropped int o the cry creek bed to go around it. The ATV riders had told us about some new logging roads that were freshly cut in. We accidentally got on one and drove a short distance before we realized we were going away from the creek bed that the road follows.

At one creek crossing, the there was a deceptively deep pool right where it looked like you should cross. I quickly backed out and moved a few feet to the left to cross in much shallower water.

We came to another intersection and again chose to go left. The road at first went between two creeks but then the terrain changed quickly. We chose a grassy spot for a picnic.

We then turned around and took the right fork across the creek. This led us into an area marked Bear Creek Wildlife management area.

We caught up with a couple of Japanese pickups and followed them for a while. It was nice to be following them at a couple of places where the road and creek merged. Right near the end of the gravel, the water was really deep. maybe 24 inches or more.

Right as the road came up out of the water the road was paved. Due to the curve in the road, looking from the paved side, it looked like a boat ramp. You could not see the trail we had just come from at all.

We guessed that this must be the state line. We turned around here. My odometer read ten miles from the end of the pavement in Keith Springs.

When we came up out of the water, I began to feel a significant vibration in my front axle. I was hoping it was just a rock or stick wedged somewhere but it just kept getting worse.

Just before the little water fall we had come down before I stopped and looked over the front axle but did not see anything amiss. However when I backed up, I heard a loud pop and I knew something had broken but I did not yet know what.

Jennifer had already headed down into the creek and Janice was making a video of her climb. I was struggling to get down to the creek.

As soon as I got to the slippery off camber part of eh waterfall, I figured out that I had lost front drive. Jennifer waved me off seeing sparks coming from the front axle U joint area. I knew what had happen then. I had broken an axle shaft U joint.

I locked the ARB and tried to continue. However with the line I was taking puling with only the left front was pushing me off the rocks. I tried to back off but got hung on something unknown behind me.

I got frustrated and finally decided to climb the water fall or else. I hit it with some momentum and let the front push to the side but stayed in the throttle and scrambled to the top.

I crossed the creek and headed back up the way we came down. The axle shaft was making a noise as it clearanced but with the locker engaged, I still had some front drive. I just had to choose lines that kept the left front tire with the most traction.

We were making a run for the trailer when we came to the fun set of ledges. Since we did not get to stay and play on the rocks near the creek bed, Jenny was taking more challenging lines up the ledges.

I had paused to watch her take an aggressive line up a couple of ledges. She was doing quite well when somehow she slipped and caught the rear pinion on a rock. The impact sheared the U joint straps spitting out the drive shaft.

We had to pull the rear drive shaft so she could continue with front drive only. Due toe h shape of the ledge and her lack of a front locker, she could not make it over the ledge. I hooked up the strap and pulled her across. We left the strap connected for the rest of the climb. Once we made it to the top of the ridge line< I cut her loose and she followed me on to the Community Center in front drive. My broken axle shaft was making more and more noise as we ran the mile or so of pavement to my trailer. I was considering trying to swap her front and rear drive shafts when it started to rain. So I decided to just let her drive home in front drive. She said it drove fine all the way home. I was able to make a quick repair of hers. Mine is still on the trailer while I check tot see if I have a spare axle shaft. See Videos in this post: Iron Gap Videos

1995 GMC Suburban HVAC controls repair

1995 GMC Suburban HVAC controls repair

The 1995 Chevrolet and GMC trucks are unique in their HVAC controls. Even though the appearance of the panel is similar, the 1994 and earlier use a different control head as well as the 1996 and later.

The mode selector switch and the temperature control switch operate electric actuators on their respective mechanical dampers. The controller sends a variable voltage signal to the actuator to command it to move to the appropriate position.

The fan speed is controlled by a separate multi position switch. The fan switch operates independently of the rest of the HVAC controls in the control head.

The mode damper control and temperature control is accomplished using transistors, diodes and resistors on a circuit board mounted behind the control knobs. Some people have reported success in replacing faulty transistors to get their controllers working again. I tried replacing the defective transistor on my board but it did not restore proper operation.

A complete replacement head unit is around $140 from Amazon.com. I was able to get one from a junkyard for a lot less. The circuit board is the same for the pickup, Tahoe and Suburban. The main difference between the different vehicles is the rear defrost control relay. The relay can be swapped into a base that does not have one.

To remove the controller from the dash, begin by removing the dash surround. Simply dig your fingers into the groove around the face panel and pull back to release the clips. To get enough to room to remove the panel, it helps to have the gear selector in low.

Before you can pull the panel very far out, you will have to disconnect the head light switch. Simply depress the locking tab and separate the plug. Set the panel aside.

The HVAC controller can now be pulled form the dash. However to get enough room to access the wires, you will likely have to remove the radio. It is held in place by two clips on the slides on each side. Depress the clips and pull the radio straight out. Disconnect the antenna cable first and then rotate the radio to disconnect the other three harnesses. Make sure that you have the theft lock code before depowering the radio, or turn the theft lock feature off.

Now you can pull out the HVAC control panel from the dash. It is likely that the locking tabs will break, as this plastic gets brittle with age. The locking tabs are not critical, as the front plate will hold the controller in place. Next, disconnect the two wiring harnesses. Mine were very difficult to separate form their sockets. There is more wire behind the dash that can be pulled out to get a better grip on the plugs to separate them.

Replace the defective components and reinstall the controller, radio and front panel.

The mode door actuator is located near the transmission tunnel on the driver’s side. It is held in place by two small screws and a tab. The screws on mine had 7/32 hex heads. The actuator can be removed and tested to see if the trouble is the actuator or the control unit in the dash. My actuator was fine and the trouble was with the head unit.

Welding Safety – Fire from the gas tank

Welding Safety – Fire from the gas tank

My dad told me about a time when he was repairing a shock mount on his Chrysler. He used the company boom truck to lift the rear of the car to a comfortable working height.

After the completed the welding job he flipped the stinger back and accidentally contacted the gas tank on the car. He was quickly surrounded by flames dripping from the tank. The little hole in the tank continued to fuel the fire.

He simply reached his gloved hand up and stopped the flow of fuel with his finger. The flame went out but he was then stuck like the proverbial little Dutch boy with his finger blocking the flow.

Soon my Grandfather walked by and asked “What are you gong to do now boy?” Dad suggested that he would continue to hold his finger in place while someone got him a roofing screw with a rubber washer.

My grandfather soon returned with a screw, washer and a wrench. Dad plugged the hole with a screw and the rubber washer made a liquid tight seal. He says that plug was still in place when he sold the cars years later.

How to replace the hood release cable on a Jeep Cherokee

How to replace the hood release cable on a Jeep Cherokee

The Jeep Cherokee hood release is operated by a cable that connects the release mechanism on the hood to the handle on the kick panel. As the cable ages, it can become hard to pull and can eventually fray. If the cable breaks or becomes disconnected from the hood release, it is almost impossible to open the hood without damage.

To remove the old cable, begin by opening the hood. Place a cloth or block over the hood latches to prevent them from catching should the hood be accidentally lowered during the procedure.

Use a flat blade screwdriver or other pry tool to pop the end of the cable sheath out of the release mechanism. You may need to pry the mechanism away from the hood to get clearance. Rotate the end of the cable so that it aligns with the slot and slip the end pin out. Again, you may have to pry the mechanism away from the hood to get clearance.

Remove the cable from the clips on the hood. Use a screwdriver to pop the rubber grommet through the firewall.

Move inside the Jeep and remove the kick panel trim. It slips under the door sill trim, but you may be able to slip it out by removing only the front two screws rather than removing the entire sill panel.

The release handle is held in place by three number three Phillips head screws. If you try to use a standard number two Phillips you may strip the screw heads. I used a number three bit in a socket with a quarter inch drive ratchet to remove the screws as they were very tight.

If you have made the doors removable, it is helpful to get them out of the way when doing this repair. If the screws are corroded, you can gain access through the hole for the door wires and spray penetrating oil on the back side of the bolts.

There is not a straight path to pull the cable out, so it may be helpful to have an assistant pull the cable through the firewall while the other guides the end of the cable through the hole. When replacing the cable, it is helpful to have an assistant push the cable up while the other catches the end with needle nose pliers or a screwdriver.

Work the grommet into place and seat it in the groove. Have an assistant press from the inside while the other is pulling from the outside to press the grommet into place.

Pull the new cable through and attach it to the release mechanism by slipping the pin in the slot. Clip the end of the cable into its slot. I used a pair of vise grips to pop it into place. Attach the cable to the clips on the hood.

Align the handle with the screw holes and install the three screws. Reinstall the kick panel cover and tighten the screws.

Test the release action several times before closing the hood. Make sure that the end of the cable is properly seated and does not pop loose. Once you are sure of the release action, close the hood. Enjoy your new hood release.

The hood cable is part number 55235483AD for 96 to 01 and 55026030 for 1987 to 1995. It cost about $20.

Update: Wayne Klotz adds these tips: I have seen some Cherokees with torx bolts holding the cable mount… Also when pulling the old cable through, attach a light rope and pull it thru the firewall. It is helpfull when pulling the new cable thru.