Iron Gap Road

Trip to Iron Gap Road near Winchester,Tn

Our previous scouting trip had made us really want to see more of Iron Gap road. We paid another visit to Iron Gap road today. This time we were armed with two well equipped Jeeps to make the run. And it turned out we were not quite as prepared as we should have been.

I was sorta of expecting this to be an easy run. After all this is a county road. We dropped my trailer at the Keith Springs Community Center. We tried to call the number of the sign about a parking permit but the recording said it was disconnected.

We headed off down the paved road toward the trail head. About half a mile in, I remembered my radio was still in the Suburban. Jennifer waited while I went back and got my radio.

I drove the first three miles or so in 2wd. Not until we dropped off down the ridge did I switch to low range. Mostly to have more control of the step ledges on th way down.

About 4 miles in we came to an intersection of four roads. The road to the right was blocked by a tree so that eliminated that option. We were left with two choices that went sorta left. We chose the one that continued down the ridge.

The trail soon looked more like a trail than a road. Eventually it ended int he solid rock creek bottom. We crossed the creek and picked up another road on the other side. We chose to turn left. The road followed the creek a short distance before it made a steep descent into the creek toward a crossing. The descent was made even more interesting by two springs that came out of the rocks right were we went down.

A couple of friendly ATV riders stopped to watch us make the descent. They were really surprised to see the second Jeep was driven by a girl.

They helped us get our bearings and we continued on. The trail crossed the creek several more times. Most of the creek bed was dry and it was sometimes difficult to tell what was rod and what was creek.

At one point the road was blocked by a tree so we dropped int o the cry creek bed to go around it. The ATV riders had told us about some new logging roads that were freshly cut in. We accidentally got on one and drove a short distance before we realized we were going away from the creek bed that the road follows.

At one creek crossing, the there was a deceptively deep pool right where it looked like you should cross. I quickly backed out and moved a few feet to the left to cross in much shallower water.

We came to another intersection and again chose to go left. The road at first went between two creeks but then the terrain changed quickly. We chose a grassy spot for a picnic.

We then turned around and took the right fork across the creek. This led us into an area marked Bear Creek Wildlife management area.

We caught up with a couple of Japanese pickups and followed them for a while. It was nice to be following them at a couple of places where the road and creek merged. Right near the end of the gravel, the water was really deep. maybe 24 inches or more.

Right as the road came up out of the water the road was paved. Due to the curve in the road, looking from the paved side, it looked like a boat ramp. You could not see the trail we had just come from at all.

We guessed that this must be the state line. We turned around here. My odometer read ten miles from the end of the pavement in Keith Springs.

When we came up out of the water, I began to feel a significant vibration in my front axle. I was hoping it was just a rock or stick wedged somewhere but it just kept getting worse.

Just before the little water fall we had come down before I stopped and looked over the front axle but did not see anything amiss. However when I backed up, I heard a loud pop and I knew something had broken but I did not yet know what.

Jennifer had already headed down into the creek and Janice was making a video of her climb. I was struggling to get down to the creek.

As soon as I got to the slippery off camber part of eh waterfall, I figured out that I had lost front drive. Jennifer waved me off seeing sparks coming from the front axle U joint area. I knew what had happen then. I had broken an axle shaft U joint.

I locked the ARB and tried to continue. However with the line I was taking puling with only the left front was pushing me off the rocks. I tried to back off but got hung on something unknown behind me.

I got frustrated and finally decided to climb the water fall or else. I hit it with some momentum and let the front push to the side but stayed in the throttle and scrambled to the top.

I crossed the creek and headed back up the way we came down. The axle shaft was making a noise as it clearanced but with the locker engaged, I still had some front drive. I just had to choose lines that kept the left front tire with the most traction.

We were making a run for the trailer when we came to the fun set of ledges. Since we did not get to stay and play on the rocks near the creek bed, Jenny was taking more challenging lines up the ledges.

I had paused to watch her take an aggressive line up a couple of ledges. She was doing quite well when somehow she slipped and caught the rear pinion on a rock. The impact sheared the U joint straps spitting out the drive shaft.

We had to pull the rear drive shaft so she could continue with front drive only. Due toe h shape of the ledge and her lack of a front locker, she could not make it over the ledge. I hooked up the strap and pulled her across. We left the strap connected for the rest of the climb. Once we made it to the top of the ridge line< I cut her loose and she followed me on to the Community Center in front drive. My broken axle shaft was making more and more noise as we ran the mile or so of pavement to my trailer. I was considering trying to swap her front and rear drive shafts when it started to rain. So I decided to just let her drive home in front drive. She said it drove fine all the way home. I was able to make a quick repair of hers. Mine is still on the trailer while I check tot see if I have a spare axle shaft. See Videos in this post: Iron Gap Videos

How to replace the hood release cable on a Jeep Cherokee

How to replace the hood release cable on a Jeep Cherokee

The Jeep Cherokee hood release is operated by a cable that connects the release mechanism on the hood to the handle on the kick panel. As the cable ages, it can become hard to pull and can eventually fray. If the cable breaks or becomes disconnected from the hood release, it is almost impossible to open the hood without damage.

To remove the old cable, begin by opening the hood. Place a cloth or block over the hood latches to prevent them from catching should the hood be accidentally lowered during the procedure.

Use a flat blade screwdriver or other pry tool to pop the end of the cable sheath out of the release mechanism. You may need to pry the mechanism away from the hood to get clearance. Rotate the end of the cable so that it aligns with the slot and slip the end pin out. Again, you may have to pry the mechanism away from the hood to get clearance.

Remove the cable from the clips on the hood. Use a screwdriver to pop the rubber grommet through the firewall.

Move inside the Jeep and remove the kick panel trim. It slips under the door sill trim, but you may be able to slip it out by removing only the front two screws rather than removing the entire sill panel.

The release handle is held in place by three number three Phillips head screws. If you try to use a standard number two Phillips you may strip the screw heads. I used a number three bit in a socket with a quarter inch drive ratchet to remove the screws as they were very tight.

If you have made the doors removable, it is helpful to get them out of the way when doing this repair. If the screws are corroded, you can gain access through the hole for the door wires and spray penetrating oil on the back side of the bolts.

There is not a straight path to pull the cable out, so it may be helpful to have an assistant pull the cable through the firewall while the other guides the end of the cable through the hole. When replacing the cable, it is helpful to have an assistant push the cable up while the other catches the end with needle nose pliers or a screwdriver.

Work the grommet into place and seat it in the groove. Have an assistant press from the inside while the other is pulling from the outside to press the grommet into place.

Pull the new cable through and attach it to the release mechanism by slipping the pin in the slot. Clip the end of the cable into its slot. I used a pair of vise grips to pop it into place. Attach the cable to the clips on the hood.

Align the handle with the screw holes and install the three screws. Reinstall the kick panel cover and tighten the screws.

Test the release action several times before closing the hood. Make sure that the end of the cable is properly seated and does not pop loose. Once you are sure of the release action, close the hood. Enjoy your new hood release.

The hood cable is part number 55235483AD for 96 to 01 and 55026030 for 1987 to 1995. It cost about $20.

Update: Wayne Klotz adds these tips: I have seen some Cherokees with torx bolts holding the cable mount… Also when pulling the old cable through, attach a light rope and pull it thru the firewall. It is helpfull when pulling the new cable thru.

Learning to Weld

Learning to Weld

I grew up around welding. My Grandfather had a welding shop where he built bulldozer blades. My dad worked his way through college as a welder. And as Plant Engineer, I supervised welders. However, I have done very little welding myself.

I know a lot of the theory and I know how to set the welder to the specs for the material being welded. But the actual physical skill of making and holding an arc and forming a puddle, I am just learning.

I have three welders to choose from. I have a small flux core wire feed welder. I have a large Lincoln MIG wire feed machine. And I have an old Hobart gasoline powered DC ARC welder.

The little wire feed is great for tacking stuff and welding exhaust. Because it is small and portable, it is great for working under the car. It makes ugly welds however. And with minimal control, it often does not hold very well.

I have learned to make pretty nice weld with my MIG. The Lincoln has continuously variable controls for voltage and wire speed. As long as I keep good tips in the nozzle, it makes nice smooth welds.

Only recently I go the old Hobart running again. It has sat dormant for at least five years. It took a bit of work to get the engine running again. But after the twigs and acorns flew out of the generator, it is making good power.

I have begun learning to use the stick welder. It turns out that the current setting has a much narrower range than I expected. If it is too hot, it blows holes in the metal instead of welding. If it is not hot enough, then the rod will not strike or it will stick. Also, the arc length seems to be critical. If it is too long, then the weld just splatters. If it is too short, then the rod sticks.

Getting the hand coordination right has been the most challenging part for me. I now understand why people say that the only way top learn to weld is to practice. I have been practicing on some simple projects that allow me to grind away my mistakes and try again.

While you can’t learn how to weld by reading a book, you can get some valuable tips. Luckily I have my dad and a good friend to ask when I have a problem. But there is a great reference that tells you all the things you need to know to learn to weld. Get a copy of Welding Secrets Revealed to learn more. Sign up for their newsletter to get timely tips in your inbox. Welding E Book