Jeep Parts available again.
I have now renewed my Crown Jeep Parts account. If you need any Jeep Parts, let me know. I can get most OEM style replacement parts for the engine, boy and suspension parts. These are the same parts sold by Quadratec. I can beat their prices. Just let me know.
Click here to access the Crown Jeep Parts Catalog
Email me with the part numbers you need and I will quote to a price on the Jeep parts you need.
I just got a new Yoke for Jenny’s rear differential. Ordered it yesterday afternoon and it is on my desk now.
Last week I ordered a Headlight assembly for a friend. She hit a bird on the way home form Florida and busted her headlight on her Jeep Liberty.
According to the Fed Ex tracking it was shipped on the 22nd. According to Fed Ex it is still in transit from Texas 8 days later.
I did hear about a Fed Ex plane crash. Maybe my package was on that plane.
I may be stuck with a headlight Assembly if she decides to get her Jeep fixed somewhere else.
To change: Remove the belt. Consider removing the front bumper as you will be working through the access hole behind the front bumper.
Auto Zone has both the removal and installation tools in their loan a tool program. Often they won’t know about the installer tool but they have it if you insist.
Run a screwdriver through one of the slots in the balancer and use that to hold it while removing the bolt.
Attach the puller and use to remove the balancer.
Pay attention to the key in the crank.
Install a new seal while you are here.
If possible, heat the new damper slightly. Don’t use a torch just a hot air gun. carefully align the key with the slot in the pulley and press the damper in place. Make absolutely sure the key is lined up. If not it will be pressed out the back damaging the front cover. Ask me how I know.
Assemble the installation tool and use the 1/2 20 adapter for the crank threads. Do not attempt to use the regular bolt to press the damper on. You will damage the crank snout.
Press the damper in place using the installation tool. remove the toll and replace the bolt. Again us a screwdriver to hold the damper while you torque the bolt to specs.
Saturday I was helping Scott change wheels and tires on his XJ Wagoneer.
While it was on the lift, he decided to take a look at his brakes. He found his front pads worn nearly to the backing plate. We searched the barn for a set of pads that I know I have. I had a set of pads that I carried around when we rally raced my Jeep Cherokee. Since his Jeep uses the same pads as mine I was sure we had spares. After a thorough search turned up no pads for an 88 XJ, he used my Jeep to go to the parts store.
While he was gone, I took was going to tighten up his rear drum brakes. As I turned the adjuster, I noticed that it did into click like it is supposed to. I loosened them back up and took the drum off. I found that the cable to works the adjuster was broken.
I dug through my spare parts and found a complete brake setup. When Scott returned, we pulled the cable out and replaced his with it.
We decided to check the other side and found that the cable was intact but simply not attached to the adjuster. After hooking it back up that side adjusted fine also.
We then proceeded to replace the pads on the front. The wear pattern on the pads showed that the calipers were binding on the locater pins. We pulled the pins out and greased them thoroughly. We found the Teflon sleeves to be worn but not really worth an hour’s drive back to the parts store for new ones.
We cleaned it all up and made sure the calipers moved properly. We cleaned and lubricated all the sliding surfaces to make sure the brakes would work properly.
One all the brake work was done we continued with mounting the tires that had started this adventure.
After a quick test drive Scott decided that he may not need to modify his brake booster after all. He can now stop as well as go.
This weekend I helped Jenny change the transmission mount on her XJ. While we had the cross member out we decided to remove the transfer case lowering blocks. This drop was put in to match the tapered lift blocks that came with her lift kit.
We removed the spacers and replaced the tapered blocks with flat blocks.
A test drive showed that the drive shaft vibes were back. I guess the drop is necessary for the 92. I have the same lift on my 88 with no transfer case drop and no drive line vibes.
We spent Sunday afternoon putting the transfer case spacers back in and replacing the flat blocks with the tapered blocks.
The drive line is now smooth again.