Archive for the ‘Safety’ Category

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Summer Safety Slogan

Friday, August 26th, 2011

Summer Safety Slogan

This summer I have had more than my fair share of injuries in the shop. It may be the heat. It may be the humidity. Louise Hay suggests that accidents and injuries are responses to anger and heat can trigger the emotion of anger.

So far this summer, I have burned my ankle with hot metal and injured my shoulder when a heavy drive shaft fell on it. In the first case, I was not wearing the proper protective equipment. In the second case I was simply not taking proper precautions.

I have read psychological reports that suggest that the summer heat has an effect on mood. In some cases the heat can cause depression. In other cases it has been links with an excessive feeling of mental fatigue. We have all observed that tempers flare more as the temperature rises.

I am sure dehydration plays a role in increasing accidents as well. I can see my own mental function start to fade and my muscle coordination also diminishes when I am dehydrated. These factors could easily contribute to accidents and injuries.

So in the summer heat my advice is to slow down, take more breaks and drink plenty of fluids. Take an extra amount of time to visualize the job process including things that could go wrong and take measures to prevent their occurrence. Wear the proper protective clothing even if it is hot.

If you fail to take proper precautions to deal with the added stress of summer heat you will then need to head my favorite safety slogan: “If you are gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough!” Have a safe summer.

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Burning My Foot While Welding

Friday, August 5th, 2011

Burning My Foot While Welding

It has been really hot in my shop this summer. So far some minor welding jobs, I have chosen not to wear full protective clothing and just take my chances with the sparks. My Australian friend Marcus Ohms has set a bad example for me in this regard.

Things were going pretty well until a glowing hot piece of metal fell into my shoe and wedged against my ankle to cool. It left a nice blister but I never stopped work, I just shook it out and kept on.

I was showing my dad the blister and he laughed and told me a story of him getting into a similar situation.

He said he had stopped by his father’s welding shop one day after his college class. He was wearing his dress slippers.

As he walked into the shop, they were working on a particularly difficult overhead weld that my dad had always done when he was working in the shop. My grandfather told my dad to hop up on the platform and finish the weld since he was quite good at it.

Dad said he was welding away and having to fill in a large gap when a large piece of molten metal fell into his shoe. He felt the burn so he just kicked off his shoe and continued welding.

The shoe however had flown across the shop and caught my grandfather right in the back of the head. My grandfather asked “Why did you kick me in the head?”

I told these stories to a millwright friend of mine who then shared this story:

He was welding structural steel on about the fourth story. He was sitting straddle of a beam welding in a cross brace. He had his legs wrapped around the beam to hold himself in place.

While welding, a hot glob rolled down the beam and then between his legs. The glob burned through his Levis and into the tender skin below. He tried to wiggle away form the burn while maintaining his balance on the beam. He burning piece of metal worked its way around inside his jeans burning his inner thigh and calf before finally falling out hit pants leg.

I guess the moral of the story is to always wear the proper protective clothing when welding. Or to remember that if you weld with fire you may get burned.

Posted in Car repair, family, Jeep, Safety | No Comments »

Ford 600 Carburetor

Saturday, July 9th, 2011

Ford 600 Carburetor Repair

My old Ford tractor runs pretty well now after I installed an electronic ignition. But it still occasionally stalls. Often it stalls in awkward places. My property is pretty hilly and sometimes it stalls on a hill where backing back down is scary. I don’t always use it like I would like to because of the stalling problem.

I had originally thought its was not having enough fuel in the tank. I had a leak at the fitting under the tank so I never liked to put in more fuel than I was going to use because it would leak out before I used the tractor again. I finally fixed that leak, but I was still having trouble with it stalling.

I have carried a long heavy screwdriver with me for a while when I use the tractor. I found years ago that I could tap on the side of the carburetor in just the right spot and it would start running again. Sometimes I had to remove the fuel bowl, but often I could just tap the side. It seemed to me that the float was sticking not letting in fuel.

Today I remembered some advice I received form a mechanic years back. He told me when I have this trouble with the tractor to remove the carburetor, take it apart and then put it back together. He said I would see nothing wrong but it would work.

I realized today after the sixth or seventh time that it stalled and I had to whack the carburetor that it had been a long time since I had taken it off the tractor.

I got it to run enough to get back to the barn and rounded up the two wrenches and screwdriver needed for the job.

First I shut off the fuel supply at the tank. Next using a 9/16 wrench, I removed the fuel bowl from the carburetor leaving it attached to the fuel line. I then loosened the two ½ inch nuts that hold the carburetor to the manifold. The manifold was hot so I had to work quickly so as not to burn my fingers.

Next I held the carburetor in one hand and removed the last nut with the other. I then slipped the two control linkages of the ball pivots. Just pull back on the connector to make them release.

With the carburetor off, I removed the four screws that hold the two halves together. One is longer than the others. I carefully separated the two halves being careful not to change the mixture adjustment.

I then poured out he gas that was in the bowl. I removed the pin that holds the float assembly and then pulled out he float valve from the top of the carburetor.

Just as I had been told I saw nothing wrong. I used some cleaner to spray in the passages where the fuel comes in and cleaned a small amount of rust out of the bottom of the bowl.

I carefully put it all back together. All the gaskets had separated cleanly so I just reused them.

I put the linkage back on the carburetor and then put it back on the manifold. Starting the two nuts was tricky because the manifold was still hot. After the carburetor was secure, I reconnected the fuel bowl making sure the copper washers were in the right places.

I then open the fuel valve and started it up. It ran rough for a minute or two. I guess it had to clear out the cleaner that was still in the passages. But after it smoothed out, the old Ford 600 ran great again.

I used the tractor for another hour and it never stalled again. I am sure glad I remembered the advice to take it apart and put it back together again. It took less than twenty minutes to do and sure made the rest of the time with the tractor more productive.

ford-tractor-basic-carburetor-repair-kit-naa-600-700 Ford Tractor Basic Carburetor Repair Kit - NAA 600 700
US $17.25 (0 Bid)
Auction Ends: Thursday May-17-2012 11:36:35 PDT
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ford-600-700-800-900-2000-4000-carburetor-kit Ford 600 700 800 900 2000 4000 Carburetor Kit
US $22.95
Auction Ends: Thursday May-17-2012 15:01:42 PDT
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600-cfm-edelbrock-carb-carburetor1406-electric-choke-chevy-ford-mopar 600 CFM Edelbrock Carb Carburetor1406 Electric Choke Chevy Ford Mopar
US $249.99
Auction Ends: Thursday May-17-2012 17:00:55 PDT
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ford-naa-600-800-carb-repair-kit-for-marvel-carburetor FORD NAA 600 800 carb repair kit for marvel carburetor
US $16.90
Auction Ends: Thursday May-17-2012 17:52:59 PDT
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carburetor-nos-1978-ford-truck-b-c-f-ln600-700-4-bbl-h CARBURETOR NOS 1978 FORD TRUCK B C F LN600-700 4 BBL H
US $380.00
Auction Ends: Friday May-18-2012 15:15:44 PDT
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holley-1850-600-cfm-carburetor-enderle-vintage-chevy-ford-mopar-supercharger HOLLEY 1850 600 CFM CARBURETOR enderle vintage chevy ford mopar supercharger
US $22.00 (0 Bid)
Auction Ends: Friday May-18-2012 16:01:14 PDT
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motorcraft-4bbl-carburetor-carb-4-barrel-electric-choke-460-429-600-650-cfm-ford Motorcraft 4BBL Carburetor Carb 4 Barrel Electric Choke 460 429 600 650 CFM Ford
US $49.99
Auction Ends: Friday May-18-2012 19:20:00 PDT
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motorcraft-4bbl-carburetor-carb-4-barrel-d4ve-ab-460-429-fomoco-600-650-cfm-ford Motorcraft 4BBL Carburetor Carb 4 Barrel D4VE AB 460 429 Fomoco 600 650 CFM Ford
US $49.99
Auction Ends: Friday May-18-2012 19:20:00 PDT
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1966-ford-352-600-cfm-auto-4v-carburetor-c6af-l 1966 Ford 352 600 CFM AUTO 4V CARBURETOR C6AF-L
US $49.00
Auction Ends: Saturday May-19-2012 18:06:30 PDT
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ford-600-700-800-900-naa-carburetor-carb-linkage Ford 600 700 800 900 NAA Carburetor Carb Linkage
US $23.95
Auction Ends: Saturday May-19-2012 19:14:49 PDT
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Replace windshield wiper bushings on a Jeep Cherokee

Monday, May 23rd, 2011

How to replace windshield wiper bushings on a Jeep Cherokee

After a while, the windshield wipers on a Jeep Cherokee will develop slack and begin to hit the windshield trim. The Jeep dealer will tell you that you have to replace the entire wiper mechanism. However, the wear is just in the little plastic bushings. With a little know how and some simple hand tools, you can have your wipers working properly again for just a few dollars in bushings.

The bushings you need are available from most auto parts stores who carry the HELP brand. You have to buy a whole pack of wiper bushings to get the three you need.

Begin by removing the wiper arms. There is a small tab near the base of the arm. Pull out on the tab and you can then remove the wiper arm from the splined drive.

Next, remove the several Phillips head screws that hold the cowl cover to the Jeep. Carefully lift the cover up until you can reach the windshield washer hoses. Pull both of these off and then set the cowl cover aside.

Remove the four torx head bolts that hold the wiper mechanism to the Jeep. These are T30 torx. Then, remove the bolt that holds the drive motor to the Jeep. It has a 13mm head. Disconnect the wiring harness from the drive motor.

Drop the splined parts through the cowl and then work the whole assembly away from the center of the Jeep into the cavity in the fender. Rotate the mechanism so that you can lift it up and out of the access hole.

Locate the three plastic bushings in the linkage. Check them for slop. On mine, only the one at the drive motor was worn excessively. Mark the linkage so that you can put it back the way it was. Use a pry bar to separate the bushing from the pivot ball. Place the bushing over a receiving cup. I used a large socket. Tap it with a hammer to remove it from the linkage. Flip the link over and drive in the new bushing in a similar manner. Make sure the tabs are aligned with the slots in the link.

If the pivot balls are rusty, clean them before reassembly. I also added a dab of grease, but that is not required. Press the ball into the bushing. Repeat the process for the other two bushings as needed.

Slip the mechanism into the cavity in the fender and rotate it back into position. Start the drive motor bolt, but do not tighten it. Make sure that the wires and washer hoses are not trapped below the linkage. Install the four torx bolts that hold the mechanism to the cowl. Once all four are started, tighten them all down. Then, complete tightening down the drive motor bolt.

Reconnect the wiring harness. Connect the two washer hoses to the cowl cover. Replace the cowl cover and screws. Slip the wiper arms back onto the splined drives and set the clips.

Spray some water on the windshield and test the wiper operation. Make sure the travel is correct and that there is no binding. If the wipers do not park in the proper position, remove them from the spines and reset them to the correct position.

Dorman - Help Windshield Wiper Linkage Bushing - 49447HELP Wiper bushing kit

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Posted in Car repair, Jeep, Process Improvement, Safety | No Comments »

Welding Safety – Fire from the gas tank

Wednesday, May 4th, 2011

Welding Safety – Fire from the gas tank

My dad told me about a time when he was repairing a shock mount on his Chrysler. He used the company boom truck to lift the rear of the car to a comfortable working height.

After the completed the welding job he flipped the stinger back and accidentally contacted the gas tank on the car. He was quickly surrounded by flames dripping from the tank. The little hole in the tank continued to fuel the fire.

He simply reached his gloved hand up and stopped the flow of fuel with his finger. The flame went out but he was then stuck like the proverbial little Dutch boy with his finger blocking the flow.

Soon my Grandfather walked by and asked “What are you gong to do now boy?” Dad suggested that he would continue to hold his finger in place while someone got him a roofing screw with a rubber washer.

My grandfather soon returned with a screw, washer and a wrench. Dad plugged the hole with a screw and the rubber washer made a liquid tight seal. He says that plug was still in place when he sold the cars years later.

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Posted in Car repair, family, Life Lessons, Safety | 1 Comment »

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