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SAAB power steering hose replacement

SAAB power steering hose replacement

Last week I had a SAAB 9000 in the shop for a severely leaking power steering hose. The amount of oil it was putting on the exhaust system was scaring me. The pressure hose had aneurisms all along it. Even the return hose was leaking some.

The owner had put off replacing the hose for two reasons. 1) There was no source for new replacement hoses and 2) the hoses are really hard to get to.

He recently found both hoses on a donor car at the Pull A part yard and removed them. The transmission was out of the donor car making them more accessible in the junk yard.

Like many pressure hoses, the end at the pump is 5/8 and the end at the steering box is 18mm. The return hose is 5/8 at the box and a hose clamp at the reservoir.

We reached the hose by lifting the car and removing the front wheels. The hose end are easy to see through the wheel wells but still difficult to access. I used a crow foot line breaking wrench to break loose the hose ends and then used an open end wrench to take the out the rest of the way, The limited access meant flipping the wrench for each turn.

The hardest part of the job was removing the torx bolt that held the center line clamp. It was a T20. It is in a bit of an angle and impossible to see and reach at the same time. Once the clamp was loose we fed the old line out through the driver side wheel well. We then fished in the replacement lines and reconnect the ends. We then reconnected the center clamp.

I would have preferred to replace the O rings on the ends but we did not have spares and the old ones looked good. They sealed fine.

It was nice for my friend to visit the shop without leaving a pool of fluid. And the lack of scary smoke each time he stopped was a nice bonus as well.

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What type of College Classes should I take?

Thinking about going to college or returning after a period of time? With most colleges you have some options when it comes to taking classes.

Traditional classes are by far the most inexpensive tuition wise. You have the opportunity to interact with other students and professors when you take on campus courses. So, if you have any questions, need study buddies, tutoring or have to work on group projects this is the best way to go. Also, if you know you have struggles in certain subject areas it is best to take courses on campus.

Video classes can be an inexpensive option though check with your college to verify that they do offer video classes and what they charge for tuition. Typically you will go to the college library and check a video out for a specific period of time to watch on your own. Some libraries may still have VHS tapes but most have converted to DVD.

Evening classes are usually the same tuition wise as a traditional day class. If you are one who is busy during the day taking an evening class can be ideal. All the evening classes I have taken usually do not go the length of  the time schedule. Most professors have been on campus all day and want to go home just as much as the students do. They may set a schedule where they will always end classes an hour or half an hour earlier. I personally have been in classes that were supposed to last three hours and get out within an hour to hour and a half after it started.

Accelerated classes / Mini-mester classes may cost the same as a regular class on campus they just last a shorter period of time aimed towards students who are in need of specific courses, usually the popularly taken ones. These classes are usually Monday through Friday for a few hours for approximately half of the time a regular semester class lasts. For example, every year the local community college where I live offers Spanish I & II classes in the Spring in what they call a “mini-mester.” The classes last two weeks each and are very intense. It is geared towards those who need to take Spanish as part of their education requirements.  This Fall there were about a dozen of the most commonly taken courses offered at an accelerated period, 10 weeks instead of 15. The courses end quicker so people who are on time constraints can complete required/needed classes towards graduation.

These type of classes should be only taken by those who know they can handle intense situations. The courses are more concentrated which means more study time in a shorter period of time. It is best if this is the only course taken, possibly another regular course if one can handle it.

Online classes are the most flexible, however, they are by far the costliest. Majority of the course is online with the exception of mid terms and finals that have to be taken at a nearby campus testing center. Now, some colleges that offer online courses may or may not give tests. College courses may give tests or quizzes online between the more important ones.

 

A student needs to recognizes their weaknesses and strengths when it comes to studying, completing assignments and whether they like to interact with other students. I have met some people who don’t do well in crowds or socializing with people so I have encouraged them to consider online classes instead. I do tell people considering online classes that they really need to be self disciplined as most of the work, studying, reading is done on your own. There are plenty of ways a person can attend college. It is just up to them to know the pros and cons of the various opportunities that lay in front of them.

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Taking Online College Courses

Have you ever considered taking your college courses online or know someone who is considering it? There are a few things that need to be taken into consideration before diving in to taking college courses online.

Are you a self disciplined person?

Online courses are moderated by instructors. They are there to answer your emails, get involved in discussions, review your work, and grade them. Many instructors will also include a syllabus and course calendar that tells you when discussions and assignments are open as well as when they close.

The one thing they won’t do is personally remind you when something is due.

 

Do you have the time to set aside for the online course(s)?

Online courses are meant for those who are unable to attend on campus classes for various reasons, however it is important to make sure before signing up for online courses that you know what your daily schedule is like. Instructors have the ability to check to see when you are logging in, how long you have been logged in and what activities you have been doing. Some instructors will go as far as telling you how much time you should put aside weekly for the course. For example, I had one social work related course that the instructor specifically stated you have to set aside a minimum of 20 hours a week . At that time I had two online courses plus three on campus courses so you can imagine what my schedule was like.

 

Consider where the mid-term, final and other tests are taken.

Depending on the course, your tests may not be taken at home. Most of my mid-terms, finals and other tests had to be proctored at the nearby community college testing center. That meant I had to call or look online for the schedule of the testing center to ensure I took my test in the allotted time. Typically the testing center has a password for that class/instructor that they have to enter after I have logged in to my course on a testing center computer. If I were traveling within the state (TN) I could go to any of the Tennessee Board of Regents colleges or Universities and take my test. Also, make sure the testing center doesn’t require making an appointment so be sure to call ahead!

 

Not all online instructors are alike

Chances are in the beginning of an online course the instructor will lay down some ground rules about the course, expectations and how things are graded.  It is important to note what the expectations are. Also, make sure you have the instructors contact info too. You never know what issues can arise. One semester I was taking Biology I online. I had a text book as well as computer software for the lab work. When I received my lab software it would not work. I even called technical support and let my instructor know the situation. Interestingly enough I found out the instructor I had for the course was the person who developed the software!  He quickly shipped out a replacement copy of the software at no charge to me.

The following semester when I was taking Biology II I fell severely ill at the very end of the course. Just before being admitted to the hospital for pneumonia I contacted my instructors to let them know what was going on and when the doctors thought I would be released after treatment. Once I was released I was able to finish up most of my course finals within the allotted time. With my Biology II course though, I was not able to find a testing center opened at the times I was able to so the instructor decided that I would just get the same grade I got for the mid term (which was ok with me).

 

Communication is Important in online courses

It should be apparent by now from reading the previous paragraphs that communication played a vital role in how I did in online courses where something came up. Instructors will tell you one of the most important things in an online course is communication. If anything comes up email or call the instructor right away. Most are understanding as long as you are not doing every time something in life happens. Don’t let what the syllabus says scare you. That information is there for general purposes. Most instructors have their own set of “rules” or guidelines to go by. I have found that when something has happened majority of the time the instructor is very understanding and willing to work with me.

 

Online courses require a lot more discipline than on campus courses. It is up to you to do the reading, complete assignments, study for tests, print out notes, assignments, study guides, note on your calendar when things are due. Online courses are made for people who can get things done on their own even with a busy schedule. If you are not sure if an online course is for you, most colleges and universities now offer a test course so you can see what it is like and it tests you to see if you are able to handle an online course. I personally tell people considering it if you are disciplined but not sure you are very well self disciplined to try one course.

Since 2006 I have taken well close to 40 online courses from lower level college courses to graduate studies. When I first learned about online courses I wasn’t sure how I would do. My first semester in college (after a 10 year absence) I tried three on campus courses and three online courses. I was  able to keep up with all six of my courses (18 hours) and make the honor roll!

The biggest reasons for why I chose to take online courses was that at the time I did not have reliable babysitting. This proved to be the case when I returned to college and was left one day without a babysitter (my mom took a half day off from work so I could go to my classes). It actually happened a second time but I was able to set up a neighbor watching my kids while I went to my classes. After those times I decided it was best I took my classes online. I didn’t have to worry about missing classes and important information or my grades suffering because I was not there.  It was a tough decision to make but I had to for the sake of my education.

 

Taking online courses is not something to take lightly. They are still college courses, but they take more self discipline and time than an on campus course does. Chances are they also cost more because they are online. Three important things to ask yourself before considering taking online classes: What are the reasons I need to consider online courses over on campus courses? Am I self disciplined?  Do I have the time to set aside?

 

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1G DSM headliner repair

1G DSM headliner repair

The headliner on my Talon fell down during storage. Like most cars of this vintage, the foam between the cloth and the backer disintegrated. This failure allowed the cloth to sag off the backer board.

My dad offered to assist in the repair since he has experience in redoing headliners and other interior parts on vintage cars. He began by removing the sun visors and the dome light held in place by Phillips screws. He then gently pried off the covers over the seat belt tracks. These just snap in place. Next he removed the coat hooks from the B pillars. This allowed the rear trim to be removed.

The headliner board is held in place by several plastic push in pins. These he popped out with the appropriate tool. Once these were out the headliner still sat in the front and rear grooves. He carefully worked it out of the rear groove and then lowered the panel and slipped it out the passenger door.

The cloth came off cleanly but the remains of the foam scatter everywhere. He put the cloth in the washing machine to remove the last bits of the foam. While it was washing, he used a stiff wire brush to scrape all the old foam and glue off the backer board. He then used a vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment to remove the last of the dust. He then vacuumed the dust that had scattered in the interior of the car when the headliner was removed.

Once the cloth was clean and dry, he sprayed a thin layer of prepositional glue on the front edge of the backer. He then worked the cloth into recess for the sun visors and dome light. Because the foam was gone, the cloth was not a little too big and some small wrinkles formed in the recesses. The cloth also stretched some due to handling.

He then worked his way back a few inches at a time smoothing the cloth into place on the headliner backer. In order to get all the wrinkles out he had to stretch the cloth slightly. This caused the holes for the push pins at the rear of the panel to not line up. I considered this a minor problem and ignored it.

To reinstall, we passed the headliner through the rear hatch and slipped it into place in the front groove. We then carefully positioned the side tabs in to the correct recesses. Then we worked the board into the rear groove. Reinstallation was defiantly a two man job as it was difficult to maneuver the large board and work the tabs at the same time.

Once the board was in place we replaced the push pins and the snapped the side panels back in place. The small circles in the cloth at the rear are hardly noticeable and the smooth appearance of the cloth with out the foam looks better than the original to me.

UPDATE: The glue did not stand up to the heat. The cloth separated after being parked in the sun. Will have to try to find a better glue.

UPDATE2: My Dad decided to pain the headliner backer board instead of regluing the cloth. Instead of painting it a solid color he painted the Talon logo. I like the look.

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1G DSM Turbo replacement

1G DSM Turbo replacement

My Eagle Talon was showing extreme oil consumption. I noticed that it was worse when I used the boost a lot. I also noticed that on high boost there was a black or blue cloud out the exhaust. The members of DSMTuners forum helped me confirm these were symptoms of a blown turbo seal.

I began trying to figure out which turbo I had. I bought this car used and the previous owner had mentioned the turbo had been modified. However, the turbo had the original marking ground off and some new numbers stamped in their place. I was not able to match these numbers to anything. Once I removed the turbo and disassembled it, it measured the same as a 16G. The stock turbo was a 14b on this car.

My original plan was to put new seals in my turbo. However, one I go tit off the car, I found the hot side housing was severely cracked and pitted. The turbine wheel was also cracked and missing parts of the blades. I am surprised it worked at all.

I found a true Mitsubishi 16G was very hard to come by. So, I decided to take a chance on a cheap eBay knockoff. It came with an installation kit and what appeared to be all the parts I needed. It arrived quickly and I set to work.

I used the procedure from http://vfaq.com/mods/turbo-swap.html to remove the turbo. One addition I have to make is that I had to remove the overflow bottle to get the radiator in and out. This step is not mentioned in the procedure. The idea of leaving the water line attached to the engine worked well. However I had trouble with the oil return line and ended up removing it contrary to the procedure.

Things were going well once I got over the idea that you really have to remove a lot of parts just to get to the turbo. A good pair of hose clamp pliers really helped with all the spring clamps.

I go the turbo bolted to the manifold easily. The kit came with new bolts so I did not have to worry with the stud. I had left the manifold in place like the procedure suggests. I learned the right rotation to bet the turbo in over the water pipe and under the manifold.

My first problem came when I realized I should have installed the oil feed line before mounting the turbo. There was simply not enough room to twist the line in behind the turbo to get it to the fitting. I also noticed that the clip seemed to be on the line backwards. I spread it apart and turned it over. I pulled the turbo back off the manifold and slipped the line in behind the turbo. I then popped out the plastic plug in the top of the turbo and noticed a huge problem. The hole in the turbo was too small for the banjo bolt!

I checked and found it was the right size for the other end of the oil line 10mm not the 12mm that is supposed to be on the turbo end. I tired to think of ways to work around the problem. The only solution I had at my disposal that day was to drill and retap the hole.

I pulled the turbo back off and set up to drill out the hole and retap it to the correct threads. When I got done, I found that my tap would not reach deep enough to thread the bottom of the hole. I needed a bottoming tap that I did not have. I compensated by grinding off the end of the banjo bolt so that it would go in far enough to crush the washers. Only after reassembling everything did I find I had cut too much off the bolt.

I had to pull the turbo back off and order a bottoming tap from McMaster Carr. With the new tap I was able to thread all the way to the bottom of the hole and with a new banjo bolt it screwed in the correct distance. I then put it all back together on the car.

I had a very hard time getting the oil return line back on. The original tube would not pull back up to the turbo after I bent it down to get the turbo out. And the new line was made slightly wrong so theta it did not line up well with the pan. There was a slight twist in the flange. I was able to get the flange to line up by using a pry bar to twist the flange while I started the bolts. I had to remove the down pipe to get enough room to do this however.

When I started the engine there was a huge oil leak at the oil fitting on top of the turbo. I tired new and old crush washers but they all leaked. I even swapped back in the old oil feed line thinking something must be wrong with the new one. I read about annealing crush washers so I tried that. They all leaked.

After buying two more new washers, I carefully examined the pattern on the washers and I noticed there was not full contact all the way around the washer. It was apparent that I had not drilled or tapped the hole straight when I made it bigger. I researched several options and eventually decided to try some nylon washers. The trouble was, the ones I bought had mold marks on them that I did not thing would allow them to seal. I had to sand them smooth before installing them.

The nylon washers sealed. However, now the top of the oil feed line leaked at the head. I removed the bolt to install new washers and I noticed that there was aluminum in the threads. As I suspected, when I tried to retighten it, the threads in the head stripped.

Upon careful inspection, I found that the reason it stripped was that the new banjo bolt in the kit did not have the correct thread pitch. The DSM head is 10mm x 1.25. The new bolt was 10mm x 1.5. Since 10mm x 1.25 is hard to come by, I decided to put in a 1.5 pitch helicoil.

I removed the air box and other items that were in the way of getting the drill in the engine compartment. I pulled the Allen head plug in the front of the head and stuffed in some Q tips to try to limit metal shaving going into the head. I drilled out the hole and then carefully tapped the new threads using the special helicoil tap. I was very careful to make sure it was all straight. I wiped it clean with Q tips and brake cleaner. I then spun the engine over to pump some oil out to flush out the metal shavings.

Once the insert was in place, I was able to bolt up the oil feed line and put it all back together again. This time it all sealed! It took a while to burn of all the oil that had spilled from all the failed attempts.

On the first test drive, I was surprised at how fast the boost came up. Boost comes in much earlier compared to the old worn turbo. I did not make it far done the road before I heard a terrifying noise an the engine died. I coasted to a stop and began looking under the hood. It took me quite a while to notice that the hose had popped off the turbo outlet. Once I put it back, then engine still would not start. I then realized I could not hear the fuel pump running.

I accessed my hidden fuel pump override switch and the engine started right up. After I got it back to the shop and shut it off, the fuel pump operation returned to normal.

The only reaming issue was the temperature gage was not working. I did not realized there were three temperature sensors o the 1G motor. I had made sure the two wires were in place but the sensor for the temp gage is hard to see under the blow off hose. Once I removed the hose and looked, I saw the wire had gotten knocked off. I simply reconnected it and the gage came back to life.

Hopefully this turbo will continue to work well for me. I did some research on the internet and I believe that this turbo was supposed to be for a Subaru and not a DSM. That is why the oil line seemed backwards and the fitting was wrong. I reread the ebay listing and noticed it did not say it was for a DSM. It simply read for “custom applications.”

Dong this project, I added another tap to my collection; I learned how to anneal copper washers and installed my first helicoil. I also learned how to be more patient with removing parts to get to others on the cramped engine compartment of the Talon. I also remembered how much fun this car is to drive.