Fitting TJ brake lines to my XJ and freeing stuck bleeder screws.
For years I have been running with the stock brake lines with my three inch lift. I just unbolted and rearranged the metal brake lines to get enough droop.
Occasionally however, I will snag something and give some undue stress on the brake lines. After one of my wheelign partners broke a brake line on the last trip out, I decided to make an upgrade.
For various reasons, I did not want to go with braided stainless teflon lines. I wanted to stay with stock DOT style rubber lines.
I decided to ry 91 TJ lines. I figured they used the same Dana 30 axle and the body was further away so the lines should be a little longer. The TJ line has a longer metal line before the rubber hose begins giving it a bit more reach.
I began by removing the old brake lines from the Jeep. This was by far the most difficult part.
First I used a stiff brush to clean the mud and dirt off the fittings. Then I used PB Blaster to soak the threads. The bottom banjo bolt came loose without much drama.
However the upper flare tube fitting was another matter. I clamped the metal part of the line in vise grips. I used the porper 3/8 line breaking wrench on the flare fitting.
I had to use a propane torch to heat the joint before I got any movement at all. It took several cycles of heat and soaking with penetrating oil before I could separate the parts with out damaging the metal line.
Once it was loose, I cleaned it up and threaded it into the new line easily. I had a little trouble getting the old copper crush washer off the banjo bolt. But once it was off, I installed the new supplied washers and tightened it down. The end of the TJ line does not look the same as the XJ line but it seals just fine.
After the new lines were installed on both sides I set to bleeding the air out of the brakes. Both bleeder screws were covered with mud and very seized in the calipers. It would have been easier to just buy new calipers but I was determined to see if I could get the out with out breaking them.
I started with the wire brush to expose the threads. I then soaked them in penetrating oil. I was careful to not round off the hex or break off the adjuster.
I was able to get the first one loose by heating it with a propane torch and cycling between heat and oil soak.
The second side was more stubborn. After the propane did not work, I stepped up to MAPP gas. That did not work either. I had to roll out the acetylene rig and get it much hotter. After a few heat and soak cycles, the bleeder finally turned.
I let both sides gravity bleed and then went back and did a pressure bleed later. The longer lines give me a much better droop and I was able to bolt the metal lines back down to the fender.