Car repair – Page 20 – The Jeep Guru

July 30, 2013

Trailer Brake upgrade

After hauling our Chump Car racer to Charlotte, I felt he current brakes were inadequate. They are over 20 years old but have new magnets and drums. Still he same old shoes however. When they were new, they would lock the wheels easily. Now even with full voltage applied, they will not quite lock even withe trailer empty.

My first upgrade was to install a new brake controller. I got one with a “boost” feature that really helped liven up the old brakes. However, the instructions boldly said not to use the boost feature to compensate for weak brakes.

I was about to buy new brake shoes when I discovered that for just three dollars more, I could get a whole new backing plate with a new magnet and new shoes installed. I then decided that since I was getting new plates, I could just put them on the other axle that does not have brakes. Then I would have four brakes instead of two. I just needed to add new drums to the order. I also discovered that the non braked axle did not have the mounting flange installed so I had to buy that as well. So my brake relining job quickly escalated.

When the big box arrived, I began by pulling the rear wheels up on ramps allowing the front axle to hang free. I removed the wheels and the hubs. I then pulled the rusty U bolts and removed the axle from the trailer. This step allowed me to carry the axle to the welding table instead of trying to bring the welder to the trailer.

I found the mounting tab fit nicely into a ridge on the spindle like it was mode for it. I test fit he backing plate and drum to confirm that was the right place. I had to clean some rust off the spindle surface to make it fit right and to get a good weld. I put a bead around the back on each flange. I made sure it was lined up square with the spring perch. I used masking tape over ht bearing surface of the spindle to protect it while grinding and welding.

I then reinstalled the axle. I bought new U bolts but they did not fit so I ended up reusing the old ones. I chased the threads with a die first.

My first glitch came when I discovered the brake plates did not come with nuts. They were 7/16 – 20 so not something I had in stock. I made it to Home Depot at 8:58pm to buy some.

The baking plates fit perfectly on the mountings flanges. I then greased and installed the new bearings that came with the new drums. I then discovered the new drums did not come withe a new castle nut washer or key. I reused the old nut and washer and used a new key from stock. I had trouble getting one of the new caps on so I reused one old cap.

Next came wiring. I was not looking forward to crawling under the trailer to run wires. So I spent a few minutes figuring a way to put the trailer on my car lift. It fits between the post with only an inch to spare. The arms can’t swing under the frame because they hit the tires. I ended up using some pipe to span the gap between arms and lifted the trailer that way. I did not try to thread the wire inside the axle tube although there are holes for this purpose. I just taped it to the outside of the axle tube.

I ran new blue wire from the new magnets to the front of the trailer and used a sheet metal screw to secure the ground side to the trailer frame. I know the instructions say to run a separate ground wire; but the old brakes have been wired this way for over 20 years and they get plenty of current to the magnets. I spliced into the other brake wire right at the connector. I may add a switch here later as the front wheels often don’t touch when towing the trailer empty.

A quick test pull showed that the new brakes give me a lot of confidence when towing. It feels much safer now knowing I actually have reserve stopping power and am not using all the brakes just to make a normal stop.

July 21, 2013July 21, 2013

Replacing a Toyota 20R igniter with MSD

The Toyota 20R igniter is getting harder and harder to come by. The MSD is an easy swap.

I connected the big red wire to the battery lead, The small red wire I spliced to the wire leading to the resistor on the coil. The black wire I put on the bolt holding the igniter bracket.

The white wire I connected to the terminal on the distributor. I removed the original wires from the coil and used the supplied spade connector adapters on the terminals. I then connected the orange and black wires.

The tach wire had a bullet connector in the wire from the igniter that also went to the negative coil terminal. I connected the gray wire to it. No adapter was needed. I removed the igniter and used wire ties to secure the MSD box to the old mount.

It fired up first time and idles much smoother than withe stock igniter. The stock igniter can be returned easily as I did not modify any of the stock wiring.

July 20, 2013July 20, 2013

Tekonsha P3 Brake Controller

tekonsha 003

My old homemade brake controller has not been acting right lately. Leaving Harlan last month somehow it got twisted and the manual activation button got pushed without my knowing it. It took a few mile for me to figure out what was wrong. Before I did, one of the magnets was shot as and there was a melted spot in the case. It has been working intermittently ever since.

After some research, I decided on the Tekonsha P3. The feature that sold me was the Boost feature. This gives a few extra volts when you first hit the brakes to get things going. Due to the way the magnets work, a little extra voltage at the beginning seems like a good idea. The P3 also had a load sensor to give voltage in proportion to the braking force as measured by a load sensor. My old one just had a timer that ramped up the voltage.

I ordered from nueratrailerparts.com. My son works there now so my box said “Hi dad” on it.

As I was sorting out the wires I began by promptly blowing the fuse in the power line. After I found a spare, I was able to proceed. I may have found the reason why the old was one intermittently working as the wire to the brake switch di not always seem to have contact. I re crimped it and it seems to work all the time after that.

The P3 needs a brake light signal, power and ground and of course output to he brakes. I crimped the blue wire to my existing blue wire going to the back of the Suburban. My 1995 Suburban has a built in blue wire from the factory for the brakes.

The instructions warn about the unit needing a very good ground and power supply, so I sacrificed my seldom used wire for a 2M radio and used it to power the P3. This wire feeds directly off the AUX power terminal of the Suburban power supply box and has a good ground.

For the brake signal, I just tied into the old wire. I am not sure where it is tied into the Suburban wiring but since it works, I just reused it.

I mounted the quick release bracket to the dash with the supplied self tapping screws. I drilled 1/8 inch pilot holes.

I quickly found out why the unit comes with such a nice storage case. When the wire is plugged in, the unit is always on. The only way to turn it off is to unplug the connector.

Set up was simple enough. I just left the voltage set at maximum as it did not lock up on pavement. I set the boost at level one and it made a very noticeable difference. I could see gravel spraying off the tires in the driveway but on pavement it worked great.

It took me a few tries to get the reverse lock out mode to activate. You have to hold a button down for five seconds which seems like forever when I am getting ready to back up.

I think I am going to like it.

June 3, 2013June 6, 2013

Wheeling and Wrenching in Harlan Ky

This past weekend I met up with the folks from the XJ List in Harlan, Ky for our semiannual meeting. After an uneventful drive to the park, we all began unloading our rigs and airing down our tires.

That is when we hit out first mechanical snag of the weekend. One of Jenny’s valve stem caps would not come off. We tried penetrating oil, vise grips and even a torch but it refused to budge. Evan was in need of some spark plugs so we quickly pulled the wheel and tire and tossed it in the bed of his rental pickup and headed for town.

We found a tire shop just a few miles up the road. They had her new valve stem installed in just a few minutes for only $6 and no questions asked. We headed on into town and got Evan some spark plugs.

We headed into the woods in the afternoon. For the first time in several trips for me we had dust instead of mud. It was very nice to make a slow crawl up trail 15 rather than a full throttle wheel spinning run. We made a nice clean run on Rail Bed getting everyone through with a few well stacked rocks. The only casualty was a broken brake line on Kevin’s Toyota. I also noticed a small leak at my front pinion seal.

The next morning I found my diff fluid mostly gone. The pinion bearing was worn enough to allow the shaft to keep the seal from sealing. I borrowed some fluid and kept on wheeling.

We took our group up to Lion’s Den to let Kevin and Dean run their Toyotas through the tight rocks. It took a lot of winching and rock stacking to get Kevin through. He suffered some body damage as well but he looked happy to be a lion tamer. Dean made the trip look almost easy as he put his exo cage to good use. He made it through without even using a winch.

We then headed up to Mason Jar. I have been wanting to run this trail again for a long time but conditions have never worked out quite right. I almost backed out again as I watched the buggies on 40s having trouble. But the group assured me that they would help me through.

My little 33” Buckshots get great grip but don’t give me a lot of clearance to get over the huge rocks in Mason Jar. I made it up onto the gate keeper rock pretty easily and had more confidence. By the time I made it to the rock that always scares me I was ready. I had broken an axle shaft on it last time. This time however, the Buckshots got a firm grip and I pulled up with very little wheel spin.

On the next ledge, Scott took a bad hop and broke the input yoke on his Dana 44. Neal had a spare so we swapped it out right there. We had a lot of unwanted advice from a group of ATV riders who passed by. With Scott back under power we finished the remainder of the trail easily.

On our last day, we went in search of more trails and tried to stay out of the sun as it was getting warm on the mountain. Neal suffered an electrical problem with his starter so that he had to always park where he could do a roll start each time. We had lunch at the entrance to Your Turn but decided not to run it due to the very difficult exit. We headed instead to Crawford’s cry. Neal made it up and so did Dean. Josh started up when he suddenly lost all oil pressure.

The rest of the group accompanied him to the zip line parking area where he could fetch it with his trailer. Jenny loaned him her XJ to go back and get his trailer. She found a seat in another Jeep and stayed with us.
I took a small group to Pin Ball and rail bed while the others helped Josh Load his possibly crippled rig. It remained to be diagnosed whether it was an actual failure or a sensor failure.

The newest member of our group had a bit of trouble on rail bed and first damaged a front leaf spring on his Wrangler. The a few feet later he broke an axle shaft. We helped him winch himself out. Once he was on level ground we swarmed over his Jeep like a pit crew and had a spare shaft installed in about 20 minutes.

Back at camp, I help talk him thorough a ball joint swap as well since he had some spares and a ball joint press. We finished just in time for supper.

Mike guiding Jeff & Jason as they replace the ball joints

The guys preparing the steaks, potato boats and corn for the group

Jenny’s XJ in Rail Bed

Kevin’s Toyota in Lion’s Den

Mike’s, Josh’s and Scott’s XJ’s waiting in line to go through Mason Jar

Jenny and Mitch helping prepare the food

Evan, Mike and Jenny

Evan & Kevin looking over the truck and determining what step to take next in Lion’s Den

Mike, Josh, Dean and Kurt looking on as Kevin drops into the Lion’s Den

Kevin, Evan & Amanda at Mason Jar

Dean taming the Lion’s Den, again

May 24, 2013May 24, 2013

Jeep Cherokee AC rebuild

My old AC compressor failed in spectacular fashion while driving on the interstate. There was a huge bang form under the hood and the engine sputtered until it cleared itself of all the Freon that it sucked in through my K&N filter mounted right behind the AC compressor.

Later, I found a big hole in the side of the compressor. I also found one of the compressor pushrods under the AC mount. I guess that is what made the hole.

I picked up a used compressor off Ebay and a new dryer from Autozone. Found Freon at Big Lots and got a bottle of PGA oil and a flush kit from the parts store.

To remove the broken compressor, I first loosened the belt. In my 1991 Cherokee, than means loosening the power steering pump. I don’t have an air box anymore so access to the adjuster is easy. All the bolts are turned by 13mm wrenches.

With the belt loose, I removed the four bolts that hold the compressor to the engine adapter. These tend to gall so I used an impact wrench to remove them. I have had them break by just using a ratchet when pulling compressors from the junkyard.

I also disconnected the high and low pressure lines at the back of the compressor. There was no need to bleed the system as it was all gone through the hole in the compressor.

I lifted the compressor to get better access to the wire and once it was loose, I removed the compressor. Next I removed the lines from the drier.

Removing the 13mm nut that holds the drier to the frame rail was the most difficult part of the removal process. I ended up using a shot 13mm socket on a swivel and lots of extensions. Access is difficult due to the high pressure hose that runs right across the top of the nut.

Once the old drier was out I began flushing the system. I flushed so that any particles form the failed compressor would be pushed back to the compressor connections. Some black and gray dust came out but no metal shavings as I feared might be there. I elected to reuse the expansion valve and not remove it. I back flushed through it. Once the flush ran clear, I used compressed air to dry the system.

I then began stripping the old drier. The low pressure switch and an adapter on the inlet side had to be swapped over to the new drier that was not exactly the same size and shape as the original. I used the new O rings provided to reassemble. I started the lines one but did not tighten them down. I then fought with the mounting nut and got the drier secured to the body. Then I finished tightening down the lines. I then reconnected the wire to the low pressure switch.

I filled the replacement compressor with PGA oil. I could not get all of it into the compressor before it started pumping out the discharge. I slowly rotated the compressor as I added oil to get it in. I added the remainder of the 8 oz bottle to the suction hose.

Next, I set the compressor in place. Again, I got the lines started onto the threads before putting bolts in the compressor. I also installed new O rings on the ends of the lines.

I put a dab of anti-seize on teach bolt before setting it in place. Once the compressor was in place, I tightened the lines on the back. I would like to say I reconnected the wire at this point, but I actually forgot until later when trouble shooting why the clutch was not pulling in.

I then connected my vacuum pump and began drawing a vacuum on the system. While waiting, I put the drive belt back in place and set the tension. I also had time for an oil change as well.

Once the system was vacuumed for 20 minutes, I checked to make sure it held vacuum. It did so I proceeded to put in the first can of R134. The Jeep compressor has a service valve. I set it about the middle point for both vacuum and installing the Freon. I use an old water faucet handle to turn the ¼ inch square valve stem.

A second can of Freon brought the pressures in line. I was careful to close the service valve and replace the caps as I disconnected my gauge set. It was nice to have cold air again. There was a big puddle of condensate on the garage floor by the time I had all the Freon installed.