Posts Tagged ‘jeep cherokee’

Replace windshield wiper bushings on a Jeep Cherokee

Monday, May 23rd, 2011

How to replace windshield wiper bushings on a Jeep Cherokee

After a while, the windshield wipers on a Jeep Cherokee will develop slack and begin to hit the windshield trim. The Jeep dealer will tell you that you have to replace the entire wiper mechanism. However, the wear is just in the little plastic bushings. With a little know how and some simple hand tools, you can have your wipers working properly again for just a few dollars in bushings.

The bushings you need are available from most auto parts stores who carry the HELP brand. You have to buy a whole pack of wiper bushings to get the three you need.

Begin by removing the wiper arms. There is a small tab near the base of the arm. Pull out on the tab and you can then remove the wiper arm from the splined drive.

Next, remove the several Phillips head screws that hold the cowl cover to the Jeep. Carefully lift the cover up until you can reach the windshield washer hoses. Pull both of these off and then set the cowl cover aside.

Remove the four torx head bolts that hold the wiper mechanism to the Jeep. These are T30 torx. Then, remove the bolt that holds the drive motor to the Jeep. It has a 13mm head. Disconnect the wiring harness from the drive motor.

Drop the splined parts through the cowl and then work the whole assembly away from the center of the Jeep into the cavity in the fender. Rotate the mechanism so that you can lift it up and out of the access hole.

Locate the three plastic bushings in the linkage. Check them for slop. On mine, only the one at the drive motor was worn excessively. Mark the linkage so that you can put it back the way it was. Use a pry bar to separate the bushing from the pivot ball. Place the bushing over a receiving cup. I used a large socket. Tap it with a hammer to remove it from the linkage. Flip the link over and drive in the new bushing in a similar manner. Make sure the tabs are aligned with the slots in the link.

If the pivot balls are rusty, clean them before reassembly. I also added a dab of grease, but that is not required. Press the ball into the bushing. Repeat the process for the other two bushings as needed.

Slip the mechanism into the cavity in the fender and rotate it back into position. Start the drive motor bolt, but do not tighten it. Make sure that the wires and washer hoses are not trapped below the linkage. Install the four torx bolts that hold the mechanism to the cowl. Once all four are started, tighten them all down. Then, complete tightening down the drive motor bolt.

Reconnect the wiring harness. Connect the two washer hoses to the cowl cover. Replace the cowl cover and screws. Slip the wiper arms back onto the splined drives and set the clips.

Spray some water on the windshield and test the wiper operation. Make sure the travel is correct and that there is no binding. If the wipers do not park in the proper position, remove them from the spines and reset them to the correct position.

Dorman - Help Windshield Wiper Linkage Bushing - 49447HELP Wiper bushing kit

Cat back Exhaust for Jeep Cherokee XJ

Saturday, January 15th, 2011

Cat Back Exhaust for Jeep Cherokee XJ

My old exhaust was crumbling apart. The tip had fallen off behind the holder and the muffler had a huge crack in the bottom. It rattled and rumbled.

Old Rusty exhaust

Old Rusty exhaust

I ordered the Dynomax system from Summit Racing through their Ebay store. It arrived in just a couple of days after I ordered. I had to laugh at the UPS man struggling with the huge box coming in my office door.

Smash checking out the package

Smash checking out the package

I began by lifting my Jeep and using a reciprocating saw to cut the muffler loose from the catalytic converter. There were a lot of old welds here so it was pretty messy. I cut the muffler to get room to work to clean it up.

Cutting off the old

Cutting off the old

The clamp at the rear hanger broke when I tried to unbolt it. I just twisted it out of the way. With both ends loose I was able to remove the muffler and tail pie as a unit from over the axle.

Old Exhaust out of the way

Old Exhaust out of the way

I used a variety of metal working tools to clean up the end of the cat. I cut off the bulk of the old pipes and weld beads with a torch. Then I used a 7 inch grinder to clean up the slag. I finished with my 4 ½ inch grinder fitted with a flap disk.

Old welds gone

Old welds gone

When I finished the reducer include in the kit slipped smoothly and snugly into place on the cat. There was a small hole in the pipe coming out of the cat so I elected to weld this joint closed rather than use the included clamp.

Reducer in place

Reducer in place

Next I slipped the muffler into place. I supported it on a stand while I fit up the tail pipe. It took some wiggling to get the tip to line up where I wanted it between the spring and the trailer hitch. When I finally got it in place I used a ratchet strap to hold it in position while I put a tack weld between the muffler and the tail pipe.

Muffler in place - Jeep Cherokee

Muffler in place - Jeep Cherokee

Tail pipe in position

Tail pipe in position

To get the rubber donut to connect properly with the hanger welded to the tail pipe, I removed the two bots that hold the hanger to the body. Then I slipped the donut over the hanger on the pipe and then I reattached the hanger using the bolts. This seemed easier than wrestling with the heavy rubber, which was cold and inflexible.

Rubber doughnut hanger

Rubber doughnut hanger

I then tightened the clamp on the rear hanger making sure the pipe was still positioned where I wanted it. I then installed the clamps at each end of the muffler. I rotated them so that the base of the clamp would face to the side. This gives maximum ground clearance and protects the ends of the bolts from damage.

Muffler clamped in palce - Jeep Cherokee

Muffler clamped in palce - Jeep Cherokee

With all the clamps in place, I removed the support and gave it a good shake to make sure it was positioned where I wanted it. I then lowed the Jeep and started the engine. I raised it back up and checked for leaks. Finding none, I was ready for a test drive.

Cat back system complete - Jeep Cherokee

Cat back system complete - Jeep Cherokee

The Dynomax system has a nice throaty rumble without being loud. I am very happy to have my exhaust gasses exiting from behind the Jeep again instead of from underneath.

99-01-02-03-04-jeep-grand-cherokee-l-exhaust-manifold 99-01 02 03 04 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE L. EXHAUST MANIFOLD
US $50.00
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 8:59:50 PDT
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stainless-steel-4-1-racing-header-exhaust-91-99-jeep-wrangler-cherokee-tj-yj-xj STAINLESS STEEL 4-1 RACING HEADER/EXHAUST 91-99 JEEP WRANGLER CHEROKEE TJ YJ XJ
US $145.99 (1 Bid)
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 9:20:34 PDT
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jeep-4-0-exhaust-manifold-+-cats-cherokee-tj-wrangler Jeep 4.0 Exhaust Manifold + Cats Cherokee/TJ Wrangler
US $100.00
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 10:56:57 PDT
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92-97-jeep-grand-cherokee-4-0l-muffler-exhaust-system 92 - 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L Muffler Exhaust System
US $65.00
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 11:46:12 PDT
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1998-jeep-grand-cherokee-4-0l-muffler-exhaust-system 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L Muffler Exhaust System
US $65.00
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 11:48:11 PDT
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93-97-jeep-grand-cherokee-5-2l-muffler-exhaust-system 93 - 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2L Muffler Exhaust System
US $65.00
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 11:50:11 PDT
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cherokee-rugged-ridge-jeep-exhaust-headers-17660-01 Cherokee Rugged Ridge Jeep Exhaust Headers - 17660.01
US $219.95
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 11:50:30 PDT
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1998-jeep-grand-cherokee-5-2l-muffler-exhaust-system 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2L Muffler Exhaust System
US $65.00
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 11:52:11 PDT
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magnaflow-16709-cat-back-exhaust-system-jeep-cherokee-srt8 Magnaflow 16709 Cat Back Exhaust System Jeep Cherokee SRT8
US $749.00 (0 Bid)
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 14:15:16 PDT
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84-85-jeep-cherokee-exhaust-manifold-4-150-2-5l 84 85 JEEP CHEROKEE EXHAUST MANIFOLD 4-150 2.5L
US $100.00
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 17:19:39 PDT
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Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

Thursday, January 13th, 2011

Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement – Jeep Cherokee Dana 35

Janice’s 1999 Jeep Cherokee has had a roar in the rear axel for a while now. I finally got around to checking on last week.

I ordered new bearings and seals from Crown Automotive. Since her rear differential is the Jeep Trac Loc, I had to have the friction modifier compound for the grease. I found that at Advance Auto.

I began by lifting the Jeep and removing the rear wheels and brake drums. These had never been off and still had the little clips from the assembly line on two of the lugs. I cut those off with dikes.

Next I let Janice remove the cover. Janice dropped it in the bucket of grease that made quite a mess.

Next I used a 1/4 inch 12 point box end wrench to remove the bolt from the cross pin. I had been concerned that pulling the axles on a Trac Loc diff would be more difficult but it was exactly the same as any other stock Jeep Carrier. I just removed the pin and slipped in the axle to release the C clip.

I removed the left side axle first as it seemed the noisiest. I had a little trouble getting the seal out because the brake shoes were in the way of getting a chisel in like I wanted to. But using a combination of the chisel, vise grips and a seal puller, I eventually popped it out.

I then used an axle bearing puller attachment on my slide hammer to pull the bearing. It takes quite an impact on the slide hammer to get the bearing to move. I have done this job on other Jeeps so I knew to hit it hard. The bearing came out smoothly once it stated to move.

The new bearing seems a very tight fit. I had trouble getting it to start straight in the axle tube. I did not have a bearing driver quite the right size and in trying different ones I somehow damaged the bearing. I noticed some of the rollers missing when I got it in place. So I had to use the slide hammer and pull the new damaged bearing.

I was more careful with the second bearing and got it in with no problem. I put a small amount of Permatex on the outside of the seal and drove it in place. I put a little gear oil on the seal to prelube it.

As I was wiping down the axle shaft to reinstall it, I noticed that there was checking in the bearing race on the shaft. Shaft will have to be replaced. I checked for spares but the only one I had was from a ZJ and the ABS tone ring was different. I replaced the original shaft temporarily.

I slipped it in place and reattached the C clip. I pulled the other shaft and noticed it had some wear as well. I will have to get two replacement shafts along with another bearing to complete the job. I reinstalled the other axle and C clip and coated the cover flange with Black RTV.

After letting the RTV set up for a minute or two, I reinstalled the cover and tightened the bolts in a crisscross manner. Janice refilled the diff with gear oil and the tube of friction modifier.

I later pulled the ZJ axles and looked at how to remove the tone rings. My bearing puller was not long enough to reach. I knew I could use my Dad’s press but I did not want to make the drive to his house.

I did some research on the internet and found a forum post that suggested that the rings would come off easily if heated. Since it was very cold out, I decided it would be a good time to try. The forum post had indicated that the tone ring was aluminum so I was being very careful not to crack it.

I put the axle shaft in the vise and began heating the ring with my acetylene torch. Soon I was able to pry the ring of the seat. I dropped it on the floor to cool. I noticed that it did not sound like aluminum.

I took a magnet to it and found it was indeed magnetic. That made sense to me since the tone ring is used to generate a magnetic field for the sensor to rear the wheel speed. It had to be steel. I was more aggressive with the heat on the second one and it slid off easily without any prying.

These shafts had no visible wear on the bearing races and look like they will make fine replacements. I just have to get more gear oil and another bearing and then find time to do the job again.

UPDATE: I have the spare axle shafts ready to go in but so far the old axles are running quietly. I will just let them run for a while.

jeep-yukon-dana-35-alloy-axle-shafts-27-spline Jeep Yukon Dana 35 Alloy Axle Shafts - 27 Spline
US $249.95
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 7:03:06 PDT
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90-06-yj-xj-tj-dana-35-chromoly-axle-upgrade-kit 90-06 YJ/XJ/TJ Dana 35 Chromoly Axle Upgrade Kit
US $259.95
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 10:05:18 PDT
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dana-35-axle-open-non-posi-carrier-case-new-1-560-side-gear-hub DANA 35 AXLE OPEN NON POSI CARRIER CASE NEW 1.560 SIDE GEAR HUB
US $121.56
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 12:18:40 PDT
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1993-1998-jeep-grand-cherokee-dana-35-axle-shaft-kit-w-bearing-&-seal-rear-right 1993-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Dana 35 Axle Shaft Kit w/Bearing & Seal REAR RIGHT
US $175.00
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 12:33:19 PDT
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dorman-oe-solutions-630-301-rear-axle-shaft-for-dana-35-with-abs-grand-cherokee Dorman OE Solutions 630-301 Rear Axle Shaft, For DANA 35 With ABS Grand Cherokee
US $192.99
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 12:53:12 PDT
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dana-35-rearend-c-clip-axle-c-clips-m35-jeep-wrangler DANA 35 REAREND C-CLIP AXLE C-CLIPS M35 JEEP WRANGLER
US $20.00
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 14:45:39 PDT
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dorman-oe-solutions-630-309-rear-axle-shaft-left-w-spicer-dana-35 Dorman OE Solutions 630-309 REAR AXLE SHAFT - LEFT w/Spicer/Dana 35
US $286.26
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 16:58:26 PDT
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dana-35-axle-rear-differential-rcx-jeep-diff-guard Dana 35 Axle Rear Differential - RCX - Jeep Diff Guard
US $59.95
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 18:12:13 PDT
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1999-2004-jeep-grand-cherokee-wj-axle-shaft-bearing-kits-dana-35-axles 1999-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ Axle Shaft Bearing Kits Dana 35 Axles
US $69.99
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 20:49:18 PDT
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powertrax-lock-right-sd2310-zytanium-cross-shaft-for-dana-35-axles-new POWERTRAX LOCK RIGHT SD2310 ZYTANIUM CROSS SHAFT FOR DANA 35 AXLES NEW
US $35.00
Auction Ends: Wednesday May-23-2012 0:28:57 PDT
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How to replace the track bar on a Jeep Cherokee

Monday, November 15th, 2010

How to Change the track bar on a Jeep Cherokee

The track bar locates the front axle side to side on a Jeep Cherokee. The stock bar consists of a rubber bushing at the axle end and a tie rod end at the frame joint. The frame end joint generally wears out first.

To determine if the track bar is bad, hold your hand on the frame end joint while an assistant turns the steering wheel back and forth. Any movement here means the bar is bad.

To replace the bar begin with the vehicle weight still on the axle. Locate the steering so that the 15mm head bolt that fastens the track bar to the axle is accessible. Remove the bolt. There is a special nut with a tab on it behind the axle. Pull it out after the bolt is free.

Now lift the vehicle to a comfortable working height. Remove the cotter key from the mounting bolt. Use a ¾ inch box end wrench to loosen the nut. Do no remove it completely at this time. Run it up even with the top of the bolt.

Use a tie rod end removal tool to press the tapered link out of the frame mount. My favorite is the Presto tie rod puller from JC Whitney that accesses the joint from the side. Hammer the puller between the bar and the mount. This will likely damage the rubber boot. Put a moderate amount of pressure on the puller by tightening he bolt on the puller.

Then use a hammer to hit the frame bracket. Hit it hard. The idea is to temporarily deform the tapered hole enough to loosen its grip on the pin. When the bar pops loose, the puller will likely fall so watch your toes.

Remove the nut the rest of the way and remove the bar. Clean the tapered hole.

On the new bar, note the location of the cotter pin hole. Be sure it is rotated in a way that will allow you to put in a new pin once it is installed in the cavity.

Slip the tapered pin into the hole. Tighten the nut. Align one of the castle nut opening s with the hole in the pin. Insert a new cotter key and bend it back over the top of the pin.

Lower the Jeep to put weight back on the axle. Fit the axle end of the bar in the bracket and align the hole. The easiest way to align the hole is to have an assistant turn the steering wheel while you line up the bolt with the hole. Alternately you can push or pull the Jeep side to side to line up the holes.

Slip the bolt in and hold the special nut up behind it and carefully start the threads. Run the bolt in but do not tighten it fully. Bounce the Jeep a few times to settle the bushing in place. Then tighten the bolt.

Grease the frame end joint if it is fitted with a grease fitting.

American Presto TIE ROD END REMOVAL TOOLAmerican Presto TIE ROD END REMOVAL TOOL

1-track-arm-jeep-tj-wrangler-97-06-ds1461 1 TRACK ARM JEEP TJ WRANGLER 97-06 DS1461
US $38.39
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 8:11:41 PDT
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jeep-tj-adjustable-front-track-bar-4-&-up-lift Jeep TJ Adjustable Front Track Bar 4" & up Lift
US $149.95
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 9:12:04 PDT
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track-bar-suspension-new-fits-1987-1995-jeep-wrangler TRACK BAR SUSPENSION NEW FITS 1987-1995 JEEP WRANGLER
US $44.95
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 9:13:35 PDT
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track-bar-1999-2004-jeep-grand-cherokee-new Track Bar 1999-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee New
US $76.00
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 10:26:15 PDT
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93-95-jeep-grand-cherokee-6cyl-track-bar-tie-rod-ball-joint-sway-bar-link-kit 93-95 Jeep Grand Cherokee 6CYL track bar tie rod ball joint sway bar link kit
US $138.63
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 10:28:56 PDT
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prothane-1-1204-rear-track-bar-arm-bushing-kit-jeep-grand-cherokee-93-98-zj Prothane 1-1204 Rear Track bar Arm Bushing Kit Jeep grand cherokee 93-98 ZJ
US $14.50 (1 Bid)
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 11:14:11 PDT
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jeep-cherokee-xj-track-bar-and-track-bar-bracket Jeep Cherokee XJ Track bar and Track bar bracket
US $15.00 (1 Bid)
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 11:19:39 PDT
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1984-1990-jeep-cherokee-wagoneer-track-bar-new 1984-1990 Jeep Cherokee Wagoneer Track Bar NEW
US $28.95
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 11:50:55 PDT
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front-adjustable-track-bar-for-jeep-tjs-xjs-with-1-5-4-5-of-lift Front Adjustable Track Bar for Jeep TJs, XJs with 1.5" - 4.5" of Lift
US $129.95
Auction Ends: Tuesday May-22-2012 18:00:21 PDT
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track-bar-91-92-93-94-95-96-97-98-99-00-01-02-03-04-05-06-jeep-comache-cherokee TRACK BAR 91-92-93-94-95-96-97-98-99-00-01-02-03-04-05-06 JEEP COMACHE CHEROKEE
US $39.99
Auction Ends: Wednesday May-23-2012 6:46:52 PDT
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Jeep 4.0 Oil filter adapter leak

Saturday, November 13th, 2010

Jeep 4.0 Oil filter adapter leak

Jeep Cherokees and other Jeeps that use the 4.0 are subject to a leak on the side of the block where the oil filter adapter attaches. There are three O rings inside that with age will leak.

Often this leak is misdiagnosed as a rear main leak or even a valve cover gasket leak. When the oil filter adapter leaks oil is blown back and collects on the rear of the engine.

The proper O rings are available in a kit from your local Jeep dealer or form a Crown Automotive distributor. Standard O rings do not seem to fit, so you need to get the proper rings from the kit.

There are two different types of oil filter adapters used throughout the run of 4.0 blocks. One has a 5/8 hex on the surface. The later version has a T60 torx in the end.

Removal of the older hex version is pretty straightforward. Just turn the hex with a wrench and remove the adapter.

Removal of the later Torx version is more difficult in that there is not enough room to put a normal torx bit in the opening and still be able to put a racket on it. One method to gain clearance is to remove one of the bolts that hold the engine mount to the body. Getting this bolt head out of he way will give just enough clearance to put a 3/8 ratchet or breaker bar on the torx bit. As the center unscrews, you will run out of room before the part is all the way out.

One way to deal with the lack of clearance is to use a torx bit that can be fit in a box end wrench. Or you can make a special tool for the job by welding the torx bit into a box end wrench.

When the O rings are hardened, it takes a lot of torque to break it loose initially and there is a lot of friction all the way out until it comes loose. If you make a wrench, be sure to make it strong.

Once the adapter is off the block, you will need to remove the old O rings. If it was leaking, then they will likely be hard like bakelite. The big one often sticks to the bock. Scrape it loose or free it from the O ring groove depending on where it ends up.

The two on the center bolt are best removed using a dental pick. Coat the new ones in oil to slip them in place. Make sure they are seated in their grooves and not twisted when in place.

Set the adapter back up on the block. Align the roll pin with the groove in the adapter to ensure the proper clocking of the adapter.

Carefully start the center bolt into the bock and tighten securely. It does not have to be as tight as it was when it came off. It was stuck by the old O rings then.

Check the oil level, as you will likely have lost what was in the filter. Start the engine and check for leaks.