Posts Tagged ‘jeep cherokee’

Dick Cepek Crusher Tires on Jenny’s XJ Jeep Cherokee

Friday, November 12th, 2010

Dick Cepek Crusher Tires on Jenny’s XJ Jeep Cherokee

In order to get a bit more off road capabilities, Jenny decided to go up a couple of tires sizes. She ordered a set of Dick Cepek Crusher tires from Tire Rack after reading many reviews and considering factors such as shipping time and customer service. To read more about her decision making process see her blog post at: http://thejeeptalks.blogspot.com/2010/11/dick-cepek-crusher-tires.html

The Dick Cepek tires have a very interesting tread pattern in a dog bone shape. The side lugs are in the shape of a skull and cross bones. The tread has a huge void area that makes for good traction in mud and rocks and self cleans quickly. The lugs are also siped for improved wet traction on pavement.

The tires arrived quickly from Tire Rack and were delivered by my friendly UPS driver who was kind enough to off load the very heavy tires in front of the shop door.

Mounting them on the rims with my manual tire changer proved to be a challenge due to the heavy sidewall construction. It was difficult to compress the tire enough to get it to slide into the drop groove on the rim. In fact, we got only three mounted before the concrete anchors that held the machine to the floor failed. I had a local tire shop do the last one and I noticed even his fancy pneumatic tire machine had a little trouble pushing on the last part of the bead.

While I was mounting the tires, Jenny worked on opening up her fender wells to accommodate all that rubber. The stock flares were removed and the flange was folded under to make a smooth surface in case the tires did contact the body work.

In the front, the bump stops were also extended an inch and a half with spacers mounted to the bottoms of the coil spring perches. The tires looked great mounted on her black Cragar steel wheels.

On the road the tires are surprisingly quiet. The road feel is fantastic and they are very smooth running. The tires required very small weights to balance which surprised me considering the total amount of rubber on them.

On the trail, they showed their value right away. She first aired them down to 15 psi. They did a fantastic job of getting her up the very muddy class III and IV trails in Harlan, Ky. The sidewalls still looked very stiff over rocks however so on day two she dropped the pressure more to 11 psi. I was pretty sure that as stiff as the sidewalls were there was little danger of them popping off the rim.

In the infamous Lower Rock Garden the tires did a fantastic job of gripping the rocks. The skull shaped side lugs that I had thought were mostly for show gripped rocks like glue. At one point the only thing holding her to a rock was the side lug and as she drove forward the tire went up the rock instead of slipping off. And this was in wet snowy conditions.

She was very happy to make her first successful run through the Lower Rock Garden. The new tires worked great.

Also on one very muddy climb where the only trucks that had made it up ahead of her were running Swampers, she made a quick mud slinging run and made it all the way to the top in one pass. The deep bone shaped lugs dug in and cleared out just as they were needed to make it up the twisty climb. I think she embarrassed some of the guys running BFG’s in that she made it look easy to climb the hill.

As we were leaving on Sunday, she aired them back up to 30 psi for the trip home. Even at interstate speeds, the tires ran smooth and quiet. The Dick Cepek Crusher tires proved to be very tough and versatile. They handled everything she threw at them: rocks, mud gravel and pavement with equal ability. Hopefully the tread life will be as great as the traction and she can enjoy them for a long time to come.

Dick Cepek Crusher Tire

Dick Cepek Crusher Tire

Dick Cepek Crusher Tire priced from $167.


How to Replace the Water Pump in a Jeep Cherokee

Monday, October 11th, 2010

A leaking water pump can quickly damage the otherwise very reliable Jeep Cherokee Engine. The water pump can be changed by a home mechanic with some patience and ordinary hand tools.

When the Jeep Cherokee water pump seal fails, it will leak from the weep hole in the bottom of the pump. Since this hole is behind the pulley, it is often hard to see where the fluid is coming from. Often a water pump leak will be misdiagnosed as a leaking hose as the fluid runs down and drips off the bottom of the hose.

Begin by letting the Jeep cool. Remove the radiator cap and make sure there is no pressure in the system.

Remove the electric fan. It unbolts from the header at the top and the bottom sits in two tabs at the bottom of the radiator.

Place a pan under the Jeep to catch the anti freeze and remove the lower radiator hose. Let the system drain. Next, remove the heater hose from the tube attached to the water pump. Be careful with the tube as you will have to reuse it.

Break loose the four bolts that hold the pulley to the water pump but do not remove them. If the tension on the belt does not hold the pulley from turning, use a square section screwdriver between two bolts to hold it while breaking loose each bolt.
Water Pump Pulley bolts

Remove the tension of the belt at the power steering pump. On the earlier versions, the whole power steering pump moves. On later ones, there is a separate adjuster pulley. Move the belt out of the way.

Finish removing the bolts and remove the pulley. Now you can access the four pump mounting bolts. These have half inch heads, not 13mm and one bolt is longer than the others.

Remove the two bolts that hold the power steering pump bracket. These are 15mm on some and 9/16 on others.

Now pry the pump away from the block. If this is an original water pump, there will be a pry tab on the top of the pump by the metal pipe. Many aftermarket pumps do not have this pry tab.

Twist the pump out from under the power steering pump bracket and carefully remove it from the Jeep. Place the pump in a vise and remove the metal pipe noting its orientation.

Put some thread sealer on the threads and install the pipe in the new water pump. Turn it until it is aligned the same as the old one was. It should stick straight back from the impeller.

Use some sticky gasket sealer like permatex to hold the gasket on the water pump.

Clean the front surface of the block down to bare metal. This is probably the most time consuming part of the whole job. Use a scraper and some chemical gasket remover if needed. The block is cast iron, so you can be aggressive when scraping.

Twist the new pump into place under the power steering pump bracket and seat it into place. Install the four mounting bolts that secure it to the block. Tighten them evenly.

Install the two bolts that hold the pump to the power steering bracket. Install the pulley using a screwdriver to hold the bolts while you tighten them. Make sure the pulley seats squarely on the flange and does not wobble when you spin it round.

Install the belt and set it to the proper tension. Reinstall the lower radiator hose and tighten the clamp. Leave the upper hose off for the moment.

Fill the system with a mixture of antifreeze and water appropriate for your climate. I use 50/50. Fill until the fluid comes out the heater hose or the metal line. Reinstall the hose and continue to fill the system. Most Jeeps hold about two gallons when the water pump is removed.

Check for leaks and then install the electric fan. Tilt it into place and engage the lower tabs. Then install the two bots at the top. Connect the control wire.

Start the engine and check the belt tension and check for leaks. Recheck the coolant level after the engine has been heat cycled.

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US $20.00 (2 Bids)
Auction Ends: Thursday May-17-2012 10:51:02 PDT
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US $5.00 (0 Bid)
Auction Ends: Thursday May-17-2012 11:01:06 PDT
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US $31.79
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US $33.95 (0 Bid)
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US $39.09
Auction Ends: Thursday May-17-2012 18:35:28 PDT
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93-jeep-grand-cherokee-4-0-water-pump-pulley- 93 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 4.0 WATER PUMP PULLEY
US $29.99
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US $39.99
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US $56.44
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Electric Fan Override Switch Jeep Cherokee

Thursday, September 9th, 2010

On the last couple of off road outings, I have had some trouble with my Jeep Cherokee overheating. Normally this Jeep has performed well with respect to heat so this was a surprise to me.

For some reason, the coolant temperature switch was not bringing in the electric fan. Also, since I have disconnected the AC, I could not force it on by turning on the AC compressor.

To get me through the day of wheeling, I ran a wire from the battery to the fan so that it ran all the time. While this kept me cool, it was inconvenient to have to open the hood and disconnect the wire every time I stopped for any length of time.

Back at home, I wired up the jumper through a switch on the dash so I could easily control the fan. I connected the hot side directly to the positive battery terminal and the other side I spliced into the red wire going to the fan.

Splice into the fan wire

New switch on the dash for the fan

This switch will cause the fan to run even with the engine off. It also bypasses all the relays and other parts of the circuit that might give trouble. The drawback is that the full fan current has to go through the switch.

In order to have a more convenient way to power up the fan when before the temp switch kicks in, I also modified the AC control circuit. This circuit also brings in the fan when the compressor clutch is engaged. Since my AC is long gone, but the compressor is still there, I unplugged the clutch power and put a jumper in the low freon switch. So if I switch on the AC, the radiator fan will run. This way, I can have the fan switch on and off with the engine.

Low freon switch jumper and AC compressor unplugged

Pinion Alignment with Axle Shims on a Jeep Cherokee

Thursday, September 9th, 2010

Pinion Alignment with Axle Shims on a Jeep Cherokee

When lifting a Jeep Cherokee, the pinion angle changes relative to the transfer case. The alignment must be within the limits of the universal joints to prevent driveline vibrations.

One method of adjusting the pinion angle is to use angled shims. These shims are placed between the spring and the spring perch to rotate the pinion to match the drive shaft.

When a Jeep is lifted three inches or more, the drive shaft angle exceeds the recommended limits for the universal joints. A common method to correct the alignment while retaining the stock drive shaft is to drop the transfer case one inch and use two degree shims or use angled lift blocks like the Rough Country Lift kit includes.

In order to eliminate the misalignment, a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit is often used on the rear of the transfer case. Several versions are available for the NP231 that replace the output shaft with a stronger, shorter shaft giving multiple advantages for one simple modification.

With a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit installed, the standard drive shaft is replaced with a double cardon type like the one used in the front of the Cherokee. In fact, if you have an automatic transmission, a stock front shaft can be used in the rear with a SYE conversion.

The double cardon type shaft however uses a very different alignment from the standard shaft. Quite a bit of axle rotation is needed to align the pinion.

In the standard configuration, the pinion and the transfer case are aligned to be parallel to each other. The idea is to have the same operating angle for both universal joints on the drive shaft.

The double cardon shaft uses a special joint with two universal joints at one end and a singe joint at the other end. The correct alignment is to have the drive shaft parallel to the pinion and the entire angle is made up in the two joints on the opposite end.

For a three inch lift, I found about 8 degrees of shim was needed. This Jeep was fitted with two degree blocks so adding six degrees of angle to the spring pack brought it into alignment.

To calculate the shims needed, you will have to use trigonometry. However it is not too bad using this simple method.

With the transfer case and axle in place, I mounted the drive shaft. The misalignment was immediately evident. I placed a straight edge along the bottom of the pinion and parallel to the pinion shaft. I then measured the distance from the drive shaft center to the top of the straight edge. In my case, I measured to a point 30 inches up the shaft and found it need to be raised three inches to make it line up.

Now divide the distance it is off by the distance up the shaft. In my case it was 3 divided by 30 or 0.1.

To convert this number to the angle, you need to take the arctangent of the number. This is easily done on a scientific calculator or even easier to do using Google. In my case I typed arctan(3/30) in degrees into the Google search line. Google returns this result: arctan(3 / 30) = 5.71059314 degrees. Round it to the nearest degree and try that shim. In my case a six degree shim was really close and worked fine.

To install the shim, you have two options. If you get a steel shim, you can weld it to the spring perch making it a permanent part of the axle. I chose to add it to the spring pack so that it can be easily changed if I want to add longer shackles or different lift blocks.

To install the shim in the spring pack, you will have to disassemble the spring pack. It is generally a good idea to replace the center pin and the shim kit came with new center pins. So you can just cut off the nuts from the center pins. They are often impossible to unbolt due to dirt and corrosion.

Begin by removing the U bolts that hold the axle to the spring. Separate the spring from the perch. Next, use two large C clamps to hold the spring pack together while you remove the center bolt.

Place the new bolt through the shim and then pass the bolt through the spring pack. Tighten the nut. Be sure the fat end of the shim is to the rear to rotate the pinion up for the Cherokee. Align the pin with the block or spring perch and press it back together with a floor jack under the axle. Cut off the excess bolt length on the center pin.

Reinstall the U bolts and tighten them to the proper torque. Give it a good whack with a hammer to make sure every thing seated right and recheck the torque. It is good to recheck the U bolts after the first run as they sometimes move around on the axle tube and loosen up.

Verify the alignment visually or with a straight edge. If it looks right, congratulations! Put the wheels back on and give it a test drive.

Rough Country Suspension Suspension Lift Kit

How to change the radiator on a Jeep Cherokee

Tuesday, August 10th, 2010

How to replace the radiator on a Jeep Cherokee

Jeep Cherokee radiators fail in two ways; they leak or they clog. Both of these conditions lead to overheating. The radiator is easy to change using simple hands tools and can be accomplished by an average mechanic in about an hour.

Before you begin, coat your hands with Market America Clear Shield.

Begin by removing the air intake box. This will give you access to the electrical connectors as well as the lower radiator hose and transmission cooling lines on the automatic.

Disconnect the electric fan and on pre 1991 models the radiator temperature switch. Remove the electric fan by removing the two small bolts (8MM heads) that connect the fan to the radiator cross member. Lift the fan out.

Unbolt the fan shroud from the cross member and slide it back over the mechanical fan but do not remove it. Use care not to loose the clips that the fan shroud and electric fan bolt to. If they break or get lost, you can get replacements at most hardware stores.

Remove the radiator cross member. It is held in place with six bolts that have 10MM heads. There are also four studs that hold the cross member to the front header. These usually have 7/16” nuts on them. Remove the two 10MM nuts that hold the cross member to the rubber radiator upper mounts. Tip the cross member up toward the front of the Jeep to remove it.

Some radiators have a drain connection on the lower right side that can be accessed by removing the grill. Alternately, the fluid can be drained by removing the lower radiator hose. Place a bucket under the Jeep to catch the fluid as it drains.

Remove the upper radiator hose. On the automatic transmission Jeeps, there are two cooling lines that have to be removed. Unbolt the upper line at the radiator. This is a flare fitting. Use a ¾ inch wrench to turn the connector.

The lower line is a special quick connect. Often these will disconnect by simply pressing the two exposed parts of the clip in with your fingers. Some later model quick disconnects do not have the finger tabs and you will need a transmission line disconnect tool to pop them loose. Also, sometimes the finger tabs will break and the tool will also be required for these as well. If all else fails, use a dental pick to lift the clip over the ridge on the tube coming out of the radiator.

Remove the rubber mounting pads from the top of the radiator so they can be reused on the new one. Unbolt the AC condenser. Remove the clip that holds lower transmission cooling line.

Remove the radiator by pulling straight up. It is held in place by two pins in rubber bushings at the bottom.

If the Jeep has overheated, it is a good idea to change the thermostat as well. It is easier to change the thermostat with the radiator out but not necessary. Also inspect the hoses and replace any suspect ones at this time.

Transfer the upper mounting pads to the new radiator and install any adapters that it has for the condenser mounting brackets. On pre 1991 models, transfer the temperature switch from the old radiator to the new one.

Slide the new radiator into place making sure that the pins slide through the lower condenser mounts and into the rubber bushing in the body. Reconnect the lower transmission line at the quick connect. Replace the lower radiator hose and tighten the clamp.

Reinstall the flare connector for the upper transmission line. Connect the mounting tabs for the AC condenser. Connect the upper radiator hose and tighten the clamp. Reattach the clip that holds the lower transmission cooling line to the radiator.

Set the radiator cross member back in place. It may help to tip it in down over the front mounting studs to get it into place. If it does not drop all the way down, this means that the radiator is not seated on its mounting pins. Check to see where it is binding before continuing.

Install but do not tighten the six bolts that hold the cross member to the body. Next install the four nuts on the studs at the header. Center the cross member and tighten the bolts and nuts.

Reattach the fan shroud being careful with the mounting clips. The shroud has two lower tabs that fit in slots in the radiator. Reinstall the electric fan and tighten its bolts. It fits in just like the fan shroud. Reconnect the wires to the fan and temperature switch.

Reinstall the air intake box. Install a new air filter if the old one is dirty.

Slowly fill the system with a mixture of antifreeze and water. Let the Jeep sit a moment to see if any air bubbles out. Shake the Jeep form side to side to see if more air will bubble out. On pre 1991 Jeeps without a radiator cap, it is helpful to remove the temperature sensor at the back of the head to let the air escape.

Once you have put in as much coolant as it will hold, start the engine and check for leaks. Allow the engine to come up to operating temperature and shut it off. Once it cools, check the coolant level again. Repeat the process until all the air is removed. Be sure to pay close attention to the engine temperature and do not allow the engine to overheat while purging the system of air.

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US $56.20 (0 Bid)
Auction Ends: Thursday May-17-2012 8:06:59 PDT
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US $52.93 (0 Bid)
Auction Ends: Thursday May-17-2012 8:12:15 PDT
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US $14.99
Auction Ends: Thursday May-17-2012 8:19:11 PDT
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99-03-jeep-grand-cherokee-radiator-cooling-fan-assembly-new 99-03 Jeep Grand Cherokee Radiator Cooling Fan Assembly NEW
US $64.09 (0 Bid)
Auction Ends: Thursday May-17-2012 8:50:28 PDT
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US $125.00
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2005-2008-jeep-grand-cherokee-radiator 2005-2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Radiator
US $174.00
Auction Ends: Thursday May-17-2012 9:06:58 PDT
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99-03-jeep-grand-cherokee-radiator-cooling-fan-assembly-new 99-03 Jeep Grand Cherokee Radiator Cooling Fan Assembly NEW
US $60.30 (0 Bid)
Auction Ends: Thursday May-17-2012 9:11:52 PDT
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US $56.20 (0 Bid)
Auction Ends: Thursday May-17-2012 10:10:37 PDT
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1991-2001-jeep-cherokee-91-1992-jeep-comanche-radiator 1991-2001 Jeep Cherokee 91 1992 Jeep Comanche Radiator
US $118.73
Auction Ends: Thursday May-17-2012 10:12:42 PDT
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