Rebuilding parking brake assembly on 2009 Ford F250
When I bought my F250 the parking brake did not hold. Since this is an automatic, it is no normally a problem. However, when trying to hook up a trailer the little bit of roll from placing the truck in park can be enough to let the hitch move out of alignment.
I assumed the brake just needed adjustment. When I could not find the adjuster, I decided to pull the drum off and see what was going on. What I found shocked me. There were no parking brake shoes, springs or anything! It looks like the backing plate rusted out and someone just removed all the parts rather than make the repair.
I ordered new backing plates, shoes and a hardware kit. I also picked up new hub seals and a hub nut socket.
Dorman HW7311 Parking Brake Hardware Kit https://amzn.to/2KgQwAb
Wagner Z854 Parking Brake Shoe https://amzn.to/2WCWJIf
2 of Timken 370247A Oil Bath Seal https://amzn.to/2KhnOip
CTA Tools 4175 Ford Wheel Bearing Locknut Socket https://amzn.to/2WJ4gKm
I jacked up the truck and removed the wheel. I then removed the caliper bracket bolts and set the whole assembly on some boxes. The hose is very short, so the support had to be just the right height to store the caliper. I then removed the rotor drum combination.
I then removed the four bolts that hold the backing plate to the axle. I then found it would not come off over the hub. I pulled the axle. I set a pan under the hub to catch the bit of axle fluid the drained out.
I then used a Ford axle socket to remove the hub nut. On the driver’s side, this is reverse thread. It clicks as it comes off.
The hub is a bit had to pull off the axle as the seal must be separated to pull it off. You will need a new seal whenever this is removed. With the hub off, I removed the backer plate.
I had a time getting the emergency brake cable to release from its clip. I ended up using a small hose clamp to compress the fingers and working the clip out of the bracket. Some PB Blaster seemed to help. Even with the cable loose from the holder it was difficult to release it form the actuator. I had to rotate the cable up and twist it of the tab. (On the second side I could not get enough slack in the cable so I had to disconnect the cable under the cab at the splice.)
I was then able to extract the actuator form the rusted backer plate. It was frozen in position, so I used PB blaster and kept working it until it freed up. I then drove the studs out of the bracket and plate.
Sorting out the new parts with no guide to go by was a challenge. Once I sorted out which parts went on which side of the truck it was easier.
The first step needs to be mounting the backer plate on the bracket and pressing in the studs. The shoes block the access if you mount them first.
I had to assemble two shoes with the top spring in position and flex them over the actuator. Then I use some big vise grip clamps to hold the shoes in place while I set the adjuster in place at the bottom. Then I installed the pins and clips that anchor the shoes to the backer plate. I used vise grips to compress the clips and needle nose pliers to twist the pins to the locked position.
With backer plate assembled, I reattached the brake cable. I then slipped it over the axle stub and bolted it to the axle housing.
I then installed a new seal and set the hub in place. I tightened the hub nut to 60 ft lbs and then backed off five clicks per the instructions.
I then reinstalled the axle and tightened the bolts. I reused the O ring as it looked to be in good shape.
I test fit the drum / rotor on the shoes and adjusted the shoes until there was just a bit of drag when installing the drum. It is easier to get to the adjuster with the drum off. Once I had them adjusted, I put the caliper back in place and secured it with the bolts.
I then reinstalled the wheel and torqued the lug nuts to 125 ft lbs. I then rechecked the torque on the axle to hub bolts. 70 ft lbs. I then reinstalled the hub cap and did the job over on the other side.