What is a JUNO and why are they billing me?

Being billed for a JUNO account I don’t have.

What is a JUNO and why are they billing me?

I was reviewing my credit card statements today and I saw a charge from UOL*JUNO ONLINE 888-839-5866 CA for $9.95. I don’t know who they are or why they are charging me.

I called the number listed and for over an hour I talked to person after person including their supervisors. They tell me that since I can’t verify the account that I don’t have then I can’t cancel it. They did look up an account that matched my name but I assume that it is another Mike Strawbridge since nothing else matched. However, they still continue to bill my credit card. The last person I talked to suggested I cancel my credit card to get the charges to stop. I have recently changed the credit card number and somehow they followed me.

I have started an investigation with Discover card to try to get the charges to be reversed. I am just amazed at the brazenness of the crooks who tell me flat out that they will continue to bill me and there is nothing that I can do to stop them.

Please leave any advice in the comments.

Ford Tractor and Bush Hog

Driving my Ford Tractor and Bush Hog – A Meditation

Operating an antique tractor can be a very spiritual experience. By spiritual I mean it causes you to focus on the present moment with great clarity. Ekart Tolle talks about how race car drivers are focuses on the present moment by race driving. I have experienced that as well, but I find the present moment focus required to safely operate my Ford 601 and bush hog is right up there with Rally Racing for being present in the moment.

The spiritual journey begins with preparing to crank the old tractor. My old Ford runs well if it is used often, but like any mechanical device it tends toward entropy when neglected. This tractor is often particularly hard to start when it has set a spell.

The normal procedure is to add gasoline because the old gas has leaked out even with the valve on the bottom of the tank closed. The next step is to use the screwdriver that I store in a hole in the dash to open the gas valve. If I am extremely lucky, the battery will have enough power to turn over the engine. Normally just the added enrichment from the choke will not be enough to start my 601. I usually have to give it a shot of starting fluid to bring it to life. This is done by disconnecting the hose from the air cleaner to the up draft carb and squirting the ether into the hose and quickly refitting it before the starting fluid runs back out.

Hitting the starter then usually results in the tractor roaring to life with lots of black smoke out the exhaust. A few tugs on the choke lever will normally stabilize the idle.

I have made a few upgrades to this 600 series Ford since I have had it. I found it on my grandfather’s farm after he passed away. The story is that he rebuilt the engine and then was never able to start it. I found it in a shed that had collapsed around the tractor. I found that he had installed the plug wires on the wrong plugs. Once I corrected the firing order, I was able to start the tractor.

The original generator was missing, so I installed a GM style single wire alternator on a fabricated bracket. I later got tired of filing points each time it sat a while so I added an electronic ignition. This was by far the best upgrade I have made to the tractor. I used to have to carry an ignition point file in my pocket when I used the tractor because some time during the day the points would ash over and stop firing. The electronic ignition has really helped with starting up as well.

This past weekend I decided to do some bush hogging. I made the mental and emotional preparations for the normal battle to crank the tractor. I was prepared to systematically work my way through the normal corroded electrical connections of clogged fuel passages until the tractor came to life. However this time, I hit the starter switch and the tractor simply ran. I was almost disappointed. The hydraulics even worked the first time I pulled the lever to raise the bush hog.

The brakes on a Ford 600 series tractor are good for some excitement on my very hilly land. The left brake works much better than the right so I get used to making most of my sharp turns to the left. But going down the steep hill behind my barn to get to the land on the other side of the creek is always an adventure. Even with my full body weight on the brake pedals, I can’t stop it going down the hill. So, once I start down, I am committed. It is best to scout the route before I start down.

To make the decent as safe as possible I stop at the top of the hill and lower the bush hog to the ground for maximum drag. Then I drop the throttle to the lowest idle speed. I ease the tractor forward and let the engine hold back the forward progress. Also, because in a few very unnerving events in the past, I keep firm pressure o the shifter holding it in 1st gear so that it does not pop out of gear. Since it take both hand to handle the steering wheel on the uneven slope, I have to hold the shifter with my knee.

While my Jeep has no trouble dropping into the creek, the ledge is too high for the bush hog to follow. I have to drive along the creek bank and drop in at a gentler slope. I then drive along the creek bed and back up the other side of the crossing.

Now I can finally engage the PTO and get the bush hog blades spinning. If the grass is tall like it usually is, I have to watch for fallen trees and limbs as I drive along.

I recently put new rear drive tires on the tractor. The old ones had quite a few cuts in them and I had to be very careful what I drove over. Now with my new tires, I am much more confident in driving over logs and limbs.

While driving over the rugged terrain, I am constantly monitoring the feedback of the pressure on the steering wheel as the front tires make there ways through the ruts and over fallen limbs. I listen intently to the sound of the spinning blades for any signs of choking or hitting a more solid object than they can cut. My nose is sensitive to the smells of the cut grass, the hot engine and monitoring for signs of unburned fuel or burning wood. I am constantly watching my line as I guide the tractor through the uncut weeds and driving as close as possible to the trees to cut as much as possible with each pass.

Once I have finished mowing, the next challenge is to get the tractor back up the steep hill to the barn. I always have to make sure I have left enough fuel because the steep grade allows the fuel to move to the back of the tank and away from the outlet in the middle. And, I sure don’t want to run out of fuel part way up the hill.

In order to cross the creek, I have to drive down into the creek and drive downstream a bit to a less steep place to come out and the return along the creek bank to the trail up the hill. I have to set the bush hog at just the right level so that it does not drag the ground but rolls on the rear wheel. If it is too low it will drag too much to climb the hill. If it is too high, the front wheels will come off the ground making it hard to steer.

As, I open the throttle and head up the hill, I have to resist the urge to lean forward as if somehow my weight shift will help the tractor go up the hill. Once safely at the top, I can close the throttle to the normal position and drive back to the barn.

I shut of the ignition and lower the bush hog slightly so that it is low enough to cover the blades but still has some pressure o the hydraulics. This seems to help the hydraulic system come back to life quicker next time the tractor is used. I use my stored screwdriver to close off the fuel cock in the bottom on the tank.

As I listen to the cutter blades slowing to a stop, I can once again begin to think about things outside the mowing experience. I make a pass around the tractor to make sure all the parts are still in place and there are no new oil or hydraulic leaks. Time on the tractor is one of complete focus almost the point of overload. I love the experience and find it very refreshing.

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Fleas are making me itch

Time to clean up the puppy dog
Time to clean up the puppy dog

For the first time since we moved to the woods in 1993, we have fleas in our house and both our dog and cat have fleas. I don’t know why this year is different, but these flea bites are making me itch. Smash spends more time scratching than he does playing. I am really glad we kept his broken leg as it works well to scratch his ear even if he has trouble controlling it. Here is an article that I hope will help me and maybe you if you also have to learn how to get rid of fleas:

Shop Flea & Tick Control at Dog.com

External parasites and their treatments
WHAT IS A PARASITE?
External parasites are pretty common among dogs. A parasite is an organism that lives off the resources your dog has to offer: namely, fresh blood (which most parasites drink) and a warm place to stay (in and on the skin and fur).
What are the common parasites that might affect my dog?
There are a wide range of parasites that affect dogs:
– Fleas
– Ticks
– Mites
– Lice
All of these parasites cause adverse reactions in your dog: typically, itching and inflamed skin, a dull coat, and bald spots. In advanced cases, your dog may develop anemia (blood loss) and become generally debilitated (particularly if he or she is very young, very old, or suffering from another condition).
In addition to this, many parasites convey secondary and internal parasites to your dog – for example, fleas usually carry the common tapeworm (which causes constipation and flatulence), and ticks can cause a variety of much more serious problems like Lyme’s disease and paralysis.
In today’s newsletter, we’re going to be looking at fleas: what they are, how to tell if your dog’s affected, and how to get rid of them.
A CLOSER LOOK AT FLEAS
Fleas are without question the number-one most common external parasite affecting dogs. They’re small, jumping insects that are light brown in color, although humans generally can’t see them – they move much too quickly for that!
Fleas live off your dog’s blood. The life cycle of a flea moves very rapidly from stage one (egg) to stage four (adult flea), which means they’re capable of multiplying with staggering rapidity.
An adult flea lays hundreds of eggs per day. Each egg will then become an adult flea, which lay hundreds more eggs of its own. One flea becomes a major problem very quickly!
HOW TO TELL IF YOUR DOG HAS FLEAS
The symptoms of a flea infestation are unmistakable.
A dog with a flea infestation will scratch almost constantly, often at areas that fleas seem to favor: the ears, the base of the tail, the belly, and the stifle (the webbing of soft skin between the thigh and the abdomen).
It’s actually the saliva of the flea that causes the irritation, not the bite itself, and some dogs have a genuine allergy to this saliva (as opposed to a standard irritation). Dogs with allergies suffer much more significant negative reactions to a flea infestation, and usually develop “hot spots”.
These hot spots are areas of sore, inflamed, flaking, bleeding, and infected skin, caused by the flea saliva and your dog’s own reaction to it. Bald patches will sometimes develop too, from repeated scratching and ongoing inflammation.
If you think your dog has fleas, you can confirm your suspicions by taking a closer look at his skin: you probably won’t be able to see the fleas themselves, but you should be able to see what looks like ground pepper (a thin sprinkling of fine black grains) on his skin. This is flea dirt (poop).
If you groom him with a flea comb (which is like a fine-tooth comb), try wiping it on a paper towel: if red blotches show up on the towel, you know that your dog has fleas (on a white background like a paper towel, flea poop shows up red: since fleas subsist on blood, their poop is colored accordingly).
TREATMENT FOR FLEAS
Because fleas only spend a small amount of time actually on your dog, and the rest of their time leaping through your house laying eggs and feeding on human blood, it’s not enough to just treat the dog: you also have to target his bedding, the entire house, all human bedding, and the yard (yes, fleas lay eggs all through the yard, too. Even if it’s cold outside, you’re not necessarily off the hook: cold weather doesn’t kill flea eggs, it just puts them into a state of hibernation. The eggs will hatch as soon as it gets warm enough outside.)
You’ll need a broad-spectrum treatment which kills not only the adult fleas (which are the ones that bite), but also any developing fleas, and the eggs.
PREVENTION IS THE BEST (AND THE EASIEST!)
Prevention is definitely the best cure – you should keep your dog’s flea treatments up to date with the use of a calendar, and use a treatment that’s prescribed by the vet. Off-the-shelf treatments aren’t recommended, since different dogs require different strengths depending on their size, age, and activity levels. A particular benefit of prescribed flea treatment is that most are also designed to prevent other parasites (like mites, ticks, and heartworm) from affecting your dog.
FOR AN EXISTING INFESTATION
If your dog already has fleas, you have two options:
– You can ‘bomb’ the house and yard with a flea-pesticide. These come as foggers (which coat each room, and the yard, in a fine mist of pesticide) and sprays (which are applied manually to each surface throughout the house and yard), and although they’re very effective in killing fleas and eggs, there’s one major drawback: they’re highly toxic to humans, dogs, and the environment. Depending on your priorities, this is probably the quickest solution to a flea problem (and will effectively wipe out the eggs, too) but if you have anyone in the house with allergies or a health condition – including pets! – you might want to think again.
– A more health-friendly alternative is to target the dog with a topical anti-flea solution prescribed by the vet (like Advantage or Revolution), and to rigorously clean the house on a regular basis until the flea problem has gone. This means vacuuming each room thoroughly each day – put a flea collar in with the vacuum bag to kill any fleas that get sucked up – and wash all human and dog bedding in hot water as often as you can (once every day or every two days is recommended). You’ll be able to tell when the problem’s gone because your dog won’t be scratching, and his coat will be clear of flea dirt when you inspect it.
WHAT NOT TO DO ABOUT FLEAS
– Don’t use multiple products on your dog – it’ll make him sick, since you’ll be overloading his system with toxins.
– Don’t forget to treat all the animals in the house at the same time: cat and dog fleas are interchangeable, and if one animal has fleas, they all will have them, even if some are not displaying the symptoms.
– Flea collars are no longer recommended as a safe option for flea prevention, since the collars are highly toxic – vets have realized that placing a toxic material directly against your pet’s skin for long periods of time (flea collars have to be worn 24/7 to be effective) is detrimental to your dog’s health.
FOR MORE INFORMATION ON PARASITES AND THEIR TREATMENT…
Fleas are just one of the many, many types of parasites that affect your dog. To find out more about the complete prevention and treatment of all types of parasites (external and internal), as well as a comprehensive guide to all aspects of dog health, take a look at The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health.
This book is an invaluable resource for the responsible dog owner, and will help you to ensure that your dog remains happy and healthy – just the way you want him to be!
You can check out the book by clicking on the link below:

http://tinyurl.com/l7xclx

Burgess Falls

This weekend I visited one of my favorite Tennessee State Parks. This is Burgess Falls State park in White country just south of Cookeville.

I think the Big falls there is the prettiest water fall I have ever seen. And on this trip the extra water made it even more beautiful.

There are three primary falls in the park. First falls, middle falls and big falls. There are also numerous small water falls in the park that don’t; even have names. Many of these are larger and more photogenic than other falls I have hiked long distances to see.

If you take the scary stairs to the bottom of the falls and hike along falling water river, you can see the remains of the old power station that was there in the 1930’s.

The stairs are on the supports of the old pipe line that run from the dam to the power station. There is also the remains of the suspension bridge where the pipe line took a short cut across the river and through the rock wall.

First falls and the old pipe support
First falls and the old pipe support

Middle Falls
Middle Falls

Big Fall at Burgess falls
Big Fall at Burgess falls

As we were leaving the falls we met several emergancy vehicles coming south from Cookeville. Aparently someone drowned in the the river below the falls. See the article here.
It is scary to think that this is likely one of the people we sat on the rocks with while we admired the water fall.

Attracting Dead Batteries

Last Friday, my fully charged cell phone battery died on my first call. Saturday morning my Jeep battery was dead. Saturday afternoon my boat battery died at the lake. Today my wife calls with a dead battery on her Jeep.

I suspect there is a message here. Last summer I was attracting fried alternators. I never really figured that one out either.

Edit: When I went out to leave the office my Jeep battery was dead again. I had to find someone to jump start me. I drove straight to Auto Zone where they swapped out my battery which was still under warranty. It started up fine this morning.

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