Jeep Cherokee Fuel Pump Relay

Jeep Cherokee Fuel Pump Relay

This morning when I started my Jeep it stumbled and stalled a few seconds after it cranked. When I tried to restart, I noticed I could no longer hear the fuel pump running.

I pulled the cover on the relay panel under the hood and used the paper clip I keep there to jump the relay. The pump ran and I could hear the regulator venting pressure. I put the relay back in place and tried to start the Jeep again.

The Jeep started but stalled again. Again I could not hear the fuel pump running. I opened the hood again and swapped the fuel pump relay and the aux fan relay. This time when I turned on the key, I heard the familiar buzzing of the fuel pump. I guess the relay made its last click this morning. I will pick up a replacement at Advance Auto later today.

Update: Autozone did not correctly list the relay and did not have the correct part at all. Advance had the right part for $13.

Catera Transmission revisited

Catera Transmission revisited

The Catera transmission I installed back in December failed suddenly for its owner recently. I towed the car back to the shop and pulled down the transmission.

I found the front pump seal blown completely out of the housing and up on the neck of the toque converter. It had pumped out all the fluid as well.

I had my suspicions about the replacement seal when I put it in. However I had been assured by the supplier that it would work fine. The proper seal has three bolts that hold it in. The replacement was simply a press fit. Apparently this transmission makes more pressure than most and just forced the seal right out.

After some research, I found the proper seal on ebay. It took a few days to get but after it arrived I was able to quickly put the car back together. Luckily I had saved the screws from the last time I had the car in the shop.

I refilled it with fluid and it seems good to go again. Hopefully this time it was last a while before it returns to the shop.

Seal popped out of housingProper seal on the left

seal

Jeep Tire Rotation

Jeep Tire Rotation
and some tips on handling lugs nuts.

Rotating the tires on a Jeep is essential to long tread life. And with the cost of off road tires, you want them to last as long as possible. You can usually see a different wear pattern develop on the outer edges of the tires due the differences in the forces acting on the front and rear tires. Ideally the rotation would occur before the pattern is visible, but I usually wait until I can see it.

There are several schools of thought on rotating tires. Rotating tires means moving the tires to a different position on the Jeep. For example, you may simply swap the front tires to the rear. This inline pattern is how I most often rotate the tires. Some people add a side to side swap at the same time so that the tires are not only on the opposite axle but also on the opposite side of the Jeep. A swap in the X pattern means the tires will now be spinning in the opposite direction on the road.

Most of my tire experience has been with sports car tires and many of them have directional tires. So, I have gotten in the habit of simply moving the front tires to the rear and keeping them on the same side when I do a tire rotation. Either way you choose, here are some ways to accomplish the task:

How you rotate the tires depends on the equipment you have to work with. Since I have a lift and air tools, I lift the Jeep remove the lugs with an air wrench and move them to the new positions. I sometimes make a trip across my balancer if I have been having any vibration issues.

If you are armed only with the Jeep jack and the stock lug wrench, you are in for a bit of extra work. First, loosen the lugs on the side you plan to swap first. Remove the spare from its mount and have it ready. Jack up one corner and remove the wheel. Replace it with the spare but only put on three lugs. Set it down and move to the other axle. Break the lugs loose and then jack up that corner. Install the first tire there and install all the lugs. Now return to the corner with the spare and replace it with the tire from the other axle. Install the lugs and lower the Jeep. Repeat the procedure on the other side. Be sure to properly tighten all the lugs nuts when you are done.

If you have a jack stand, you can use it instead of the spare tire to save some effort. If you have two jacks you can save even more time and energy.

When loosening the lugs, note that they can be very tight. I prefer to use an air impact wrench for loosening. If you use a ¾ inch socket on the factory lug nuts, be sure it fits properly and is a deep well socket. Using a shallow socket will damage the chrome cover on the lug nut and make it so that no socket will fit it properly. If the cover is damaged, replace the lug nut. If you are faced with trying to remove a lug that is missing the chrome cover, get a cover from another lug nut and slip it inside you socket. This will allow a ¾ socket to fit the damaged lug.

If you do not have compressed air, I have found the electric impact wrenches work very well also. Even some of the battery powered units have plenty of torque and battery life for a tire rotation. Avoid the cheap guns that attach to the car battery. They are useless for tire rotation.

If you do not have an impact wrench, a long handled ratchet or breaker bar with a ¾ inch deep well socket works well. Be prepared to stand on the wrench handle if they were last put on at a tire shop. I don’t like to use a 4 way wrench because most of them are not deep enough to engage the lug nut properly.

Also, while the wheel is off inspect the lug studs threads. If there are damaged either chase the threads with a die or replace the stud. If the lugs are damaged in any way replace them. I prefer to run 13/16 hex lugs on my Jeeps instead of the stock size. However, I have to always remember that the stock lug wrench will no longer fit when I travel.

When tightening the lugs nuts, I always use a torque wrench. I prefer to use the clicker type for lug nuts for two reasons. First, the beam type wrenches are too hard to read sideways. Second, I would rather have precision than accuracy in lugs nuts. In other words, I don’t care if they are 73 or 76 I just want them all the same. BTW, I set the wrench at 75 ft lbs for the lug nuts.

I use a torque wrench because not only have I had the misfortune to have a wheel come loose while driving, I have seen wheel hubs damaged by too much torque. Also, a respected mechanic friend of mine, Jim Alton says that improper torque can cause brake shudder on Jeeps.

Rotating the tires at each oil change will help keep up with the uneven wear. Also, while the front wheels are off, it is easier to lubricate ht various grease fittings in the front suspension.

Warped Brake Rotors on Jeeps and How to Prevent Them

Warped Brake Rotors on Jeeps and How to Prevent Them

When I picked up my new brake rotors for my Jeep the guy at the parts counter advised me to carefully clean the brake rotors of oils including oil from my fingers to prevent warping. This was new to me and got me thinking about warped brake rotors and reminded me that I have not had to deal with a warped rotor in a long time.

The first thing I learned years ago was that the pulsing sensation we called a warped brake rotor is not actually warping. You can put a dial indicator on the face of the rotor and spin it around and it will read very little run out when it is making a pounding sound when the brakes are applied. You can measure it all the way around and you will find very little difference in thickness either.

The real cause of the shudder is a chemical change in the metal of the surface of the rotor. You can sometimes see it but most of the time you can’t. Turning the rotor cuts off that surface layer making the rotor run smooth again adding to the warping myth.

The rotor surface chemically interacts with the brake pads under the heat of braking. Most of this interaction occurs during the bedding in process of the brake pads. Many high performance and racing pads have a critical bedding in process to establish the correct chemical bonding between the two materials. Usually this involves making controlled braking maneuvers at predetermined speeds to generate the heat needed for the reaction to take place. It is important not to come to a complete stop during the process so that the interface layer is kept consistent around the rotor face.

This leads to why rotors “warp” and how to avoid it. The interface layer is constantly maintained as the rotor face and the brake pad material wears away. A new layer is constantly formed with each use of the brakes.

If you come to a complete stop with the brakes hot, the reaction will continue under the pads where the heat cannot dissipate. If it is held there too long, it will create a bond that is a bit stronger or weaker than the area next to it on the rotor. As the rotor develops these uneven spots where the coefficient of friction is grater that the surrounding rotor face, the brakes will give the characteristic chatter that we call a warped rotor. The pulsing in the pedal will feel like the rotor is pushing the pads away from the surface.

I tried a lot of things before I finally got away from “warped” rotors. I tried the expensive rotors. I tried the cross drilled and slotted rotors. I tried various pad materials.

The thing that I found that helps more than anything is a simple driving technique. Some people call it the Limousine stop. I call it a creeping stop. If I suspect that my brakes are hot when coming to a stop, I will aim to stop a bit short and then just before the Jeep stops and is ready to rock back, I let off the brakes and let it creep forward about a half turn of the wheel. If I have to stay stopped like at traffic light, I will creep forward again another quarter turn of the wheel to help even out the heat buildup in the rotor.

There are times where it may not be possible to make such a stop. For example in an emergency or if you have to spot unexpectedly. You may also have to hold the brake longer than you wish thereby creating a hot spot. If this occurs, I repeat the performance pad bed in process and create a new interface layer. Depending on how bad the hot spot is, it may take several repetitions of heat cycling the pads to get them smooth again.

Since I have made this style of stop a habit, I have not had any more trouble with warped brake rotors. I can’t remember the last time I replaced rotor on one of my Jeeps due to chatter.

Jeep Cherokee Front Brakes

Jeep Cherokee Front Brakes

This week I once again replaced the front brake pads and rotors on my Jeep Cherokee. I managed to catch them this time before the lining of the pads wore down to the metal. However, I found I still needed to replace the rotors because they had worn. There was actually a lip at the outer edge that made removing the calipers difficult.

I considered having the rotors turned. However, since it costs $16 to turn the at the machine shop and it takes two trips to town to drop them off and them pick them up later, I simply elected to buy new ones for $24 each.

I lifted the Jeep and removed a wheel. I then removed the two retaining bolts that hold the caliper to the knuckle. I had to use a pry bar to separate the pads slightly to get the caliper to come off over the lip in the rotor.

Once the caliper was off, I pried off the outer brake pad. I then used a C clamp to press the piston in before removing the inner pad from the piston. I then put new Duralast Gold brake pads that I got as free replacements at Autozone. I like the stopping power and feel of these pads and I really like the way my local store handles the warranty on the pads. I just swap the worn ones for new ones.

I then cleaned up the protective oil form the new rotor and set it in place. The guy at the parts counter had warned me that if I touched the rotor after cleaning the oil from my hands might cause it to warp. I have never experienced this problem but I heeded his advice anyway and cleaned the rotor again after it was in place on the hub.

I inspected the slide pins and mounting hardware. It all seemed OK, so I slipped the caliper into place over the new rotor. I tightened the two mounting bolts and put he wheel back in place.

I repeated the procedure on the other side. However on the second side, I pried the pads apart before loosening the caliper bolts as it made it easier to pry on the caliper. I don’t think I have ever had rotors wear quite like this before.

With the wheels back on and the truck lowered back to the ground, I pumped the pedal a few times to move the pistons out to contact the rotor before moving the Jeep. I made sure not to press the pedal further than normal while doing this to reduce the chance of damaging the master cylinder seals on trash that may have accumulated in the end of the bore.

The Duralast pads do not require any special bedding in process. I just make sure I don’t stop completely while they are hot for the first few miles. If I do have to come to a complete stop with them warm, I use a creeping motion to make sure that the heat is dissipated throughout the rotor rather than concentrating it all in one place. After ten to twelve stops, I could feel that the pads were nicely bedded in.