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My new Favorite Meditation

My new Favorite Meditation

I recently decided to return to my study of Taoism. Taoism has always appealed to me because of their scientific approach to philosophy. Lao Tsu and the other writers took a lot of time to study plant and animal life to see what works and what does not. They developed very workable practices that really help maintain a strong and healthy mind and body.

I recently read an interesting article by Michael Winn where he talks about smiling to your internal organs. He explains the Taoist philosophy of acceptance very succinctly with the concept of smiling. By smiling he means that we simply acknowledge that a certain condition exists and we smile with no judgment. A thing or event is neither good nor bad, it just is. I find I can save a lot of mental and spiritual energy when I stop judging things as good or bad and just accept them.

So the meditation I have begun to use based on Winn’s ideas and my previous Taoist studies is to simply talk to my body. I like to carry on a conversation with all my body parts.

Since I have had some pain and discomfort in my right foot lately I usually begin there. The conversation goes something like this:

Hey foot. How are you doing down there? I notice that you are sending a lot of interesting signals lately. I really appreciate how you carry me around and support me. I really appreciate all the little tiny bones that have to intersect just right to do all the amazing task that you accomplish all day long. I am really thankful that I have you to carry me around like you do.

My foot rarely talks back, but I can tell it responds well to being appreciated. The pain usually goes away quickly as I stop thinking about it and think about the entire task my foot performs for me.

One of the concepts that I really like in Winn’s article was not condemning body parts that don’t work up to our expectations. He even speaks of welcoming and loving malfunctioning parts like tumors and infections. These are part of our bodies and are there for a reason. If we act with malice towards these parts, they respond in kind. However if we act in love toward these parts, they adapt and rejoin the working collective of our body.

I recently had a sinus headache. Normally all I want to do it get rid of the swelling. I have tried all sorts of herbal remedies and then usually resort to pseudoephedrine. But this time I had a loving conversation with my sinuses. It went something like this:

Ok Sinuses, I know you are irritated. I have been irritated at a lot of things lately but I am working to just let them go. I really appreciate the way you try to protect me by filling with fluid. I know the sensation of swelling that I feel is your way of letting me know what is going on. I really appreciate all you do with the filtering of each and every breath. I know that you do a lot of other tasks that I don’t even understand. And I just want you to know that I appreciate all you do. If you feel the need to swell up to protect me, then have at it. If however the threat is over, let’s just relax and let our guards down. I am going to just lie down for a while and let you do what ever you think is best.

In far less time than it would have taken for the sinus medicine to digest, my headache was gone. I never got any real answers form my sinuses, but the pain went away and I felt like my sinuses worked better and felt appreciated.

I am finding a lot of clarity in taking time to sit and talk with my body and its organs. I really like the concept of not condemning body parts but loving all of them no matter what their shape or form. I am working on loving the excess fat around my belly. I am telling it that I really appreciate the protection is giving me. If it feels the need to stick around, that is fine. However if its job is done, then the fat can be redistributed to other places in my body or used up as fuel. But I am leaving the detail up to the belly fat cells to decide. I am appreciating their presence and respecting their right to be there. I am no longer fighting to get them to leave. I simply love them for who they are.

I feel much more at peace with my self and with my body. I don’t feel like I need to struggle anymore.

I think this meditation and coming to peace within my body is going to help me be more at peace with my external world as well. It will be an interesting trial at least.

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Air Conditioner 1995 GMC Suburban

Servicing the Air Conditioner 1995 GMC Suburban

My Ac compressor recently failed in my 1995 GMC Suburban. Changing the compressor is relatively easy. Just three bolts hold it to the cradle. See this previous article on changing the Suburban AC compressor.But servicing the rest of the system after a compressor failure is a bit more of a challenge.

My Suburban has the dual with two evaporators. One is located under the dash and a second one is located in the rear fender. The orifice tube is not in the same palce as in the pickup and the single system SUVs. The orifice tube is located under the battery support.

Removal of the battery tray involves removing several fasteners that hold the complicated tray to the fender and to the front header. It took me a while to locate them all.

With the tray removed, the junction containing the orifice tube can be accessed with wrenches. It took quite a bit of torque to separate the nut from the fitting so a backup wrench was critical. Once the junction was separated; I extracted the old orifice tube with needle nose pliers.

The filter screen was covered in metal shaving from the compressor that had failed. I used a flush solvent to wash out the metal shavings from the lines and the condenser. I used compressed air to clean out the remaining flush solvent.

Next I replaced the valves on both the high and low pressure ports. The low pressure port has a Schrader valve that looks like a tire core. It installs just like attire core as well. The high pressure port screws onto the line as an assembly. I did not have a wrench that fit the flats on the fitting, so I just used Channel Locks.

I was not able to get the lines to separate at the rear of the truck so that I could flush these lines. I am going to take the risk and reassemble the system with out flushing these lines.

I had to make an adapter to connect my old vacuum pump to the 134 type fittings. But it pulled down quickly and held a vacuum just like it was supposed to.

At first, the low pressure switch would not let the compressor run. Even with a hot can of Freon attached to the accumulator. I checked all the wiring just to make sure but it was in fact the low pressure switch holding it out.

I made up a jumper to force the compressor to run. Very quickly it began pulling Freon from the can. Ice formed on the can to let me know it was going down. I removed the jumper periodically to see if the low pressure switch was satisfied. It took one full can before the low pressure switch would let it run at all. Then it would only run a second or two and then kick back off. I continued on with the jumper in place.

The line after the orifice tube began to ice up but the air in the vents was still not cold. I removed the jumper and let the line thaw for a while. I then added the third can. The pressure switch was letting the compressor run a bit longer but I still left the jumper in place. Finally, with the third can in, cooler air came out of the vents. I was out of Freon so I let it sit for the evening.

The next day I got another can and added it to the system. Finally the low pressure switch stayed in and the system began to cool properly.

So far, it is working well. AC will be nice in the record high temps we are having in Tennessee this week.

[phpbay]suburban ac, 10[/phpbay]

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How to replace the fan clutch on a Ford Explorer

How to replace the fan clutch on a Ford Explorer

My friends 1993 ford explorer was running hot when sitting still or climbing his long step driveway. He had correctly guessed that the fan clutch was not working properly.

At the parts store, we picked up a new belt and a fan clutch. Leaving the truck parked while we got parts allowed time for it to cool.

I noticed when I pulled the clutch out of the box that it mounted differently from the Jeeps I am accustomed to working on. Instead of having four small bolts, it has one big one in the center.

I dug through the tool box and I did not have any open end wrenches big enough to go over the nut. The nut on the explorer is 36mm. Even my largest adjustable wrench would not open up enough to engage the nut.

My friend made a quick call to the parts store and found that they had the tool in their loan a tool program. So back to the store we went to get the correct tool. There was a hefty deposit required but the counter guy was nice enough to simply hold his check while we used the tool.

Back at the shop, the tool set had not only the correct wrench to fit the clutch but a handy tool for holding the water pump pulley while removing it. The mounting nut came loose with much less force than I expected and I mashed my thumb between the two wrenches.

I found it was much easier to remove and replace the clutch with the belt off. It was really easy to install the belt with he fan out of the way, but I had to take the belt back off to get the clutch started on to the water pump shaft threads.

So from what I learned, here is how to change a fan clutch on an explorer:

Loosen the belt by putting a socket on the tensioner and move it off the belt. Loosen the fan shroud by removing the two bolts at the top.

Use the special tool, to hold the water pump. Then use the proper wrench to turn nut to loosen the clutch from the water pump. Spin the water pump pulley while holding the fan to remove the clutch.

Remove the shroud and fan at the same time. Remove the four bolts that hold the fan to the clutch. Place the fan on the new clutch and bolt it in place. Put the new assembly in the shroud and lower it in to place.

Hold the fan and spin the water pump to thread it into the new clutch. Tighten with he special tools. Clip the bottom of the shroud into place. Reinstall and tighten the two shroud bolts that the top of the radiator.

Move the tensioner away from the belt and slip the belt back in place. Check for any loose items or tools before starting the engine to test.[phpbay]fan clutch, 10[/phpbay]

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Replace windshield wiper bushings on a Jeep Cherokee

How to replace windshield wiper bushings on a Jeep Cherokee

After a while, the windshield wipers on a Jeep Cherokee will develop slack and begin to hit the windshield trim. The Jeep dealer will tell you that you have to replace the entire wiper mechanism. However, the wear is just in the little plastic bushings. With a little know how and some simple hand tools, you can have your wipers working properly again for just a few dollars in bushings.

The bushings you need are available from most auto parts stores who carry the HELP brand. You have to buy a whole pack of wiper bushings to get the three you need.

Begin by removing the wiper arms. There is a small tab near the base of the arm. Pull out on the tab and you can then remove the wiper arm from the splined drive.

Next, remove the several Phillips head screws that hold the cowl cover to the Jeep. Carefully lift the cover up until you can reach the windshield washer hoses. Pull both of these off and then set the cowl cover aside.

Remove the four torx head bolts that hold the wiper mechanism to the Jeep. These are T30 torx. Then, remove the bolt that holds the drive motor to the Jeep. It has a 13mm head. Disconnect the wiring harness from the drive motor.

Drop the splined parts through the cowl and then work the whole assembly away from the center of the Jeep into the cavity in the fender. Rotate the mechanism so that you can lift it up and out of the access hole.

Locate the three plastic bushings in the linkage. Check them for slop. On mine, only the one at the drive motor was worn excessively. Mark the linkage so that you can put it back the way it was. Use a pry bar to separate the bushing from the pivot ball. Place the bushing over a receiving cup. I used a large socket. Tap it with a hammer to remove it from the linkage. Flip the link over and drive in the new bushing in a similar manner. Make sure the tabs are aligned with the slots in the link.

If the pivot balls are rusty, clean them before reassembly. I also added a dab of grease, but that is not required. Press the ball into the bushing. Repeat the process for the other two bushings as needed.

Slip the mechanism into the cavity in the fender and rotate it back into position. Start the drive motor bolt, but do not tighten it. Make sure that the wires and washer hoses are not trapped below the linkage. Install the four torx bolts that hold the mechanism to the cowl. Once all four are started, tighten them all down. Then, complete tightening down the drive motor bolt.

Reconnect the wiring harness. Connect the two washer hoses to the cowl cover. Replace the cowl cover and screws. Slip the wiper arms back onto the splined drives and set the clips.

Spray some water on the windshield and test the wiper operation. Make sure the travel is correct and that there is no binding. If the wipers do not park in the proper position, remove them from the spines and reset them to the correct position.

Dorman - Help Windshield Wiper Linkage Bushing - 49447HELP Wiper bushing kit