Author: Mike

Posted on

How to replace the fan clutch on a Ford Explorer

How to replace the fan clutch on a Ford Explorer

My friends 1993 ford explorer was running hot when sitting still or climbing his long step driveway. He had correctly guessed that the fan clutch was not working properly.

At the parts store, we picked up a new belt and a fan clutch. Leaving the truck parked while we got parts allowed time for it to cool.

I noticed when I pulled the clutch out of the box that it mounted differently from the Jeeps I am accustomed to working on. Instead of having four small bolts, it has one big one in the center.

I dug through the tool box and I did not have any open end wrenches big enough to go over the nut. The nut on the explorer is 36mm. Even my largest adjustable wrench would not open up enough to engage the nut.

My friend made a quick call to the parts store and found that they had the tool in their loan a tool program. So back to the store we went to get the correct tool. There was a hefty deposit required but the counter guy was nice enough to simply hold his check while we used the tool.

Back at the shop, the tool set had not only the correct wrench to fit the clutch but a handy tool for holding the water pump pulley while removing it. The mounting nut came loose with much less force than I expected and I mashed my thumb between the two wrenches.

I found it was much easier to remove and replace the clutch with the belt off. It was really easy to install the belt with he fan out of the way, but I had to take the belt back off to get the clutch started on to the water pump shaft threads.

So from what I learned, here is how to change a fan clutch on an explorer:

Loosen the belt by putting a socket on the tensioner and move it off the belt. Loosen the fan shroud by removing the two bolts at the top.

Use the special tool, to hold the water pump. Then use the proper wrench to turn nut to loosen the clutch from the water pump. Spin the water pump pulley while holding the fan to remove the clutch.

Remove the shroud and fan at the same time. Remove the four bolts that hold the fan to the clutch. Place the fan on the new clutch and bolt it in place. Put the new assembly in the shroud and lower it in to place.

Hold the fan and spin the water pump to thread it into the new clutch. Tighten with he special tools. Clip the bottom of the shroud into place. Reinstall and tighten the two shroud bolts that the top of the radiator.

Move the tensioner away from the belt and slip the belt back in place. Check for any loose items or tools before starting the engine to test.[phpbay]fan clutch, 10[/phpbay]

Posted on

Replace windshield wiper bushings on a Jeep Cherokee

How to replace windshield wiper bushings on a Jeep Cherokee

After a while, the windshield wipers on a Jeep Cherokee will develop slack and begin to hit the windshield trim. The Jeep dealer will tell you that you have to replace the entire wiper mechanism. However, the wear is just in the little plastic bushings. With a little know how and some simple hand tools, you can have your wipers working properly again for just a few dollars in bushings.

The bushings you need are available from most auto parts stores who carry the HELP brand. You have to buy a whole pack of wiper bushings to get the three you need.

Begin by removing the wiper arms. There is a small tab near the base of the arm. Pull out on the tab and you can then remove the wiper arm from the splined drive.

Next, remove the several Phillips head screws that hold the cowl cover to the Jeep. Carefully lift the cover up until you can reach the windshield washer hoses. Pull both of these off and then set the cowl cover aside.

Remove the four torx head bolts that hold the wiper mechanism to the Jeep. These are T30 torx. Then, remove the bolt that holds the drive motor to the Jeep. It has a 13mm head. Disconnect the wiring harness from the drive motor.

Drop the splined parts through the cowl and then work the whole assembly away from the center of the Jeep into the cavity in the fender. Rotate the mechanism so that you can lift it up and out of the access hole.

Locate the three plastic bushings in the linkage. Check them for slop. On mine, only the one at the drive motor was worn excessively. Mark the linkage so that you can put it back the way it was. Use a pry bar to separate the bushing from the pivot ball. Place the bushing over a receiving cup. I used a large socket. Tap it with a hammer to remove it from the linkage. Flip the link over and drive in the new bushing in a similar manner. Make sure the tabs are aligned with the slots in the link.

If the pivot balls are rusty, clean them before reassembly. I also added a dab of grease, but that is not required. Press the ball into the bushing. Repeat the process for the other two bushings as needed.

Slip the mechanism into the cavity in the fender and rotate it back into position. Start the drive motor bolt, but do not tighten it. Make sure that the wires and washer hoses are not trapped below the linkage. Install the four torx bolts that hold the mechanism to the cowl. Once all four are started, tighten them all down. Then, complete tightening down the drive motor bolt.

Reconnect the wiring harness. Connect the two washer hoses to the cowl cover. Replace the cowl cover and screws. Slip the wiper arms back onto the splined drives and set the clips.

Spray some water on the windshield and test the wiper operation. Make sure the travel is correct and that there is no binding. If the wipers do not park in the proper position, remove them from the spines and reset them to the correct position.

Dorman - Help Windshield Wiper Linkage Bushing - 49447HELP Wiper bushing kit

Posted on

Jeep Cherokee Torque Converter will not lock

Jeep Cherokee Torque Converter will not lock

The first time I had this happen, I thought it was odd. But now I have had the same problem on another Jeep Cherokee. The transmission computer will not send the signal to lock the torque converter. This results in higher rpms and lower gas mileage.

The first time, I had quite a time tracing through the wiring diagrams to find the poorly documented brake switch. This switch releases vacuum to the cruise control motor and drops the signal for the torque converter. It is mounted on the brake pedal assembly well about the switch for the brake lights.

Removing the switch is difficult for me. To make it somewhat easier, I removed the driver’s seat and lay in the floor. Even in this position, access to the switch is difficult. The wiring harness and the vacuum line must be disconnected before the switch can be removed. The switch has very fine threads and it took me a long time on my back to unscrew it.

Once the switch was out, I opened the case and cleaned the contacts in side. With just a quick blast of contact cleaner, the switch was reliable again.

Installation is much easier than removal. Just get the switch started in the threads and push. Slide it in to touch the brake pedal with the case. Reattach the vacuum line and wiring harness.

In both the 1988 Wagoneer and the 1989 Cherokee I worked on, this fixed the trouble with the converter. The later model Jeeps may have a different circuit to control the transmission so this trick may not work. However, for the Renix controlled Jeeps, this fix seems to do the trick.

Update:  Just had the 89 come back to the shop and the converter was not lockign agon.  However the brake switch was fine this time.  Troubleshooting led to the TPS.  With a new TPS the converter now locks up like it is supposed to and the transmission shifts better.  http://mikestrawbridge.com/blog/2018/11/replacing-a-renix-tps/

Posted on

Gas tank repair – Ford 600

Gas tank repair – Ford 600

My old tractor and I were at an impasse. It did not want to run with very little gas in it and I did not want to put in extra gas because it just leaked out.

This weekend, I finally decided to do something about it. It began by draining the tank. I removed the fuel bowl and let it drain into a can. While it was draining, I worked on removing the cowling. After most of it drained out, I removed the line from the carburetor.

There were six bolts around the part that holds the steering wheel. It looked like there should have been eight. There were two more bolts at the front that attached the cowl to the radiator support. I used my lift to raise the cowl up and out of the way.

Next, I removed the two bolts that hold the tank down near the steering wheel. There looked like just one bolt holding the front, but it refused to come loose. I had to remove the whole support bracket from the engine.

With the tank off, I flipped it over and removed the outlet from the bottom of the tank. Two small bolts with 3/8 heads held it in place. Under the flange was what was left of the old O ring. It was no surprise that it leaked.

I installed a new O ring and replaced the outlet on the bottom of the tank. Even with the tank off, I could not get the one bolt loose from the support. So, I just put it all back like I took it off. Getting the bolts behind the muffler was a challenge but I was able to get them in.

With it all back together, I put the fuel back in the tank and then added a bit more. The old Ford ran much better with a few gallons pushing the fuel down to the crab.
[phpbay]ford 600, 10[/phpbay]