Category: Car repair

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Replace windshield wiper bushings on a Jeep Cherokee

How to replace windshield wiper bushings on a Jeep Cherokee

After a while, the windshield wipers on a Jeep Cherokee will develop slack and begin to hit the windshield trim. The Jeep dealer will tell you that you have to replace the entire wiper mechanism. However, the wear is just in the little plastic bushings. With a little know how and some simple hand tools, you can have your wipers working properly again for just a few dollars in bushings.

The bushings you need are available from most auto parts stores who carry the HELP brand. You have to buy a whole pack of wiper bushings to get the three you need.

Begin by removing the wiper arms. There is a small tab near the base of the arm. Pull out on the tab and you can then remove the wiper arm from the splined drive.

Next, remove the several Phillips head screws that hold the cowl cover to the Jeep. Carefully lift the cover up until you can reach the windshield washer hoses. Pull both of these off and then set the cowl cover aside.

Remove the four torx head bolts that hold the wiper mechanism to the Jeep. These are T30 torx. Then, remove the bolt that holds the drive motor to the Jeep. It has a 13mm head. Disconnect the wiring harness from the drive motor.

Drop the splined parts through the cowl and then work the whole assembly away from the center of the Jeep into the cavity in the fender. Rotate the mechanism so that you can lift it up and out of the access hole.

Locate the three plastic bushings in the linkage. Check them for slop. On mine, only the one at the drive motor was worn excessively. Mark the linkage so that you can put it back the way it was. Use a pry bar to separate the bushing from the pivot ball. Place the bushing over a receiving cup. I used a large socket. Tap it with a hammer to remove it from the linkage. Flip the link over and drive in the new bushing in a similar manner. Make sure the tabs are aligned with the slots in the link.

If the pivot balls are rusty, clean them before reassembly. I also added a dab of grease, but that is not required. Press the ball into the bushing. Repeat the process for the other two bushings as needed.

Slip the mechanism into the cavity in the fender and rotate it back into position. Start the drive motor bolt, but do not tighten it. Make sure that the wires and washer hoses are not trapped below the linkage. Install the four torx bolts that hold the mechanism to the cowl. Once all four are started, tighten them all down. Then, complete tightening down the drive motor bolt.

Reconnect the wiring harness. Connect the two washer hoses to the cowl cover. Replace the cowl cover and screws. Slip the wiper arms back onto the splined drives and set the clips.

Spray some water on the windshield and test the wiper operation. Make sure the travel is correct and that there is no binding. If the wipers do not park in the proper position, remove them from the spines and reset them to the correct position.

Dorman - Help Windshield Wiper Linkage Bushing - 49447HELP Wiper bushing kit

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Jeep Cherokee Torque Converter will not lock

Jeep Cherokee Torque Converter will not lock

The first time I had this happen, I thought it was odd. But now I have had the same problem on another Jeep Cherokee. The transmission computer will not send the signal to lock the torque converter. This results in higher rpms and lower gas mileage.

The first time, I had quite a time tracing through the wiring diagrams to find the poorly documented brake switch. This switch releases vacuum to the cruise control motor and drops the signal for the torque converter. It is mounted on the brake pedal assembly well about the switch for the brake lights.

Removing the switch is difficult for me. To make it somewhat easier, I removed the driver’s seat and lay in the floor. Even in this position, access to the switch is difficult. The wiring harness and the vacuum line must be disconnected before the switch can be removed. The switch has very fine threads and it took me a long time on my back to unscrew it.

Once the switch was out, I opened the case and cleaned the contacts in side. With just a quick blast of contact cleaner, the switch was reliable again.

Installation is much easier than removal. Just get the switch started in the threads and push. Slide it in to touch the brake pedal with the case. Reattach the vacuum line and wiring harness.

In both the 1988 Wagoneer and the 1989 Cherokee I worked on, this fixed the trouble with the converter. The later model Jeeps may have a different circuit to control the transmission so this trick may not work. However, for the Renix controlled Jeeps, this fix seems to do the trick.

Update:  Just had the 89 come back to the shop and the converter was not lockign agon.  However the brake switch was fine this time.  Troubleshooting led to the TPS.  With a new TPS the converter now locks up like it is supposed to and the transmission shifts better.  http://mikestrawbridge.com/blog/2018/11/replacing-a-renix-tps/

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Gas tank repair – Ford 600

Gas tank repair – Ford 600

My old tractor and I were at an impasse. It did not want to run with very little gas in it and I did not want to put in extra gas because it just leaked out.

This weekend, I finally decided to do something about it. It began by draining the tank. I removed the fuel bowl and let it drain into a can. While it was draining, I worked on removing the cowling. After most of it drained out, I removed the line from the carburetor.

There were six bolts around the part that holds the steering wheel. It looked like there should have been eight. There were two more bolts at the front that attached the cowl to the radiator support. I used my lift to raise the cowl up and out of the way.

Next, I removed the two bolts that hold the tank down near the steering wheel. There looked like just one bolt holding the front, but it refused to come loose. I had to remove the whole support bracket from the engine.

With the tank off, I flipped it over and removed the outlet from the bottom of the tank. Two small bolts with 3/8 heads held it in place. Under the flange was what was left of the old O ring. It was no surprise that it leaked.

I installed a new O ring and replaced the outlet on the bottom of the tank. Even with the tank off, I could not get the one bolt loose from the support. So, I just put it all back like I took it off. Getting the bolts behind the muffler was a challenge but I was able to get them in.

With it all back together, I put the fuel back in the tank and then added a bit more. The old Ford ran much better with a few gallons pushing the fuel down to the crab.
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How to replace the thermostat on a Jeep Cherokee

How to replace the thermostat on a Jeep Cherokee

The thermostat controls the engine temperature in the Jeep Cherokee. It is located at the front of the cylinder head inside the water outlet. The thermostat limits coolant flow until the engine reaches 195 degrees F. With the thermostat open, coolant is free to flow to the radiator to be cooled. The thermostat opens and closes to regulate the flow and maintain the proper operating temperature for the engine.

Automotive thermostats consist of a wax pellet that melts at a predetermined temperature. As the wax melts, it opens the valve in the thermostat. As the valve ages, it can become partially stuck in either the open or closed position. Also, so thermostats have a latching mechanism that prevents the thermostat from ever closing again if it exceeds a certain temperature such as in an overheating episode.

To change the thermostat, you must remove the water outlet from the cylinder head. The outlet is held in place by two bolts. The upper bolt is easy to access. However, the drive belt blocks the lower bolt.

While it is possible to work around the belt, it is usually easier and less frustration to loosen the belt and move it out of the way. It is especially hard to get the bottom bolt started into the hole correctly with he belt in place.

When the system is opened, coolant will be lost. Either park the Jeep where the coolant can be collected or drain the radiator by removing the lower radiator hose. Either way is messy, so be prepared. Remember that anti freeze is toxic to pets and wildlife.

Remove the two hoses from the water outlet. Remove the two bolts. Gently pry the water outlet off. More coolant will likely come out at this point. The thermostat will likely stay in the head. Gently pop it loose.

Clean the mating surfaces of any old gasket material and corrosion. Attach the new gasket to the water outlet. If the new gasket does not have an adhesive use something like Permatex to attach it to the outlet piece. Install the new thermostat in the recess in the head. It should stay put. If it does not, try a spot of gasket sealer to hold it in place. If it slips out of the groove while installing the water outlet, it will cause a leak.

Place the water outlet over the new thermostat and install both bolts. Tighten them evenly. If you loosed the belt, tighten it now.

Leave the water hoses off and add coolant until it comes out the heater hose connection. Install the heater hose. Continue to add coolant until it comes out the larger connection. Install that hose. Continue to add coolant to fill the system.

There will likely still be some air in the system. Either remove the temperature sensor at the back of the head to bleed the air or heat cycle the engine a couple of time to purge the air.

Check for leaks. Test-drive the Jeep to make sure the new thermostat controls at the correct temperature. If the engine has been running too hot or too cold due to a bad thermostat, the computer may take time to adjust. There may also be other damage that caused overheating such as a leaking head gasket. The Jeep 4.0 engine is pretty tough and can survive some overheating. Recheck the coolant level again after the engine cools off.